The Ultimate Guide to 3D Printing Terms (2026 Edition)

Bookmark this page as your go-to 3D printing glossary. We update it regularly to reflect the latest developments in the hobby and industry.

Part 1: Types of 3D Printers

Before diving into individual 3D printing terms, it helps to understand the main printer categories. Different printing technologies use very different 3D printing terminology, so knowing which type you own or are buying matters. If you’re still deciding, check out our best FDM 3D printers of 2026 or explore the top picks for resin printing.

FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)

The most common consumer 3D printing technology. FDM printers work by melting a plastic filament and depositing it layer by layer to build a 3D object. FDM is beginner-friendly, affordable, and supports a wide range of materials. Also called FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication).

SLA (Stereolithography)

A resin-based printing process that uses an ultraviolet (UV) laser to cure liquid photopolymer resin layer by layer. SLA produces extremely smooth, high-detail prints — ideal for miniatures, jewelry, and dental models. Requires post-processing (washing and curing) after printing. Now widely accessible to consumers.

MSLA / LCD Resin Printing

A variant of SLA that uses an LCD screen masked by UV light to cure an entire layer at once rather than tracing with a laser. Faster than traditional SLA and now the dominant consumer resin format. Common in printers like the Elegoo Mars and Anycubic Photon series.

DLP (Digital Light Processing)

Similar to MSLA but uses a digital projector chip (DMD) instead of an LCD. DLP can offer sharper pixel edges and longer screen lifespan. Common in professional and prosumer resin printers.

SLS (Selective Laser Sintering)

An industrial 3D printing process that uses a laser to sinter (fuse) powdered nylon or other polymer materials. SLS produces strong, functional parts without support structures since the unsintered powder supports the model. Desktop SLS options have emerged in recent years.

DMLS / SLM (Metal Printing)

Metal 3D printing technologies that fuse metal powder using a high-powered laser. Now widely used in aerospace, medical, and industrial manufacturing for titanium, steel, and aluminum parts. Still expensive and impractical for most hobbyists, but costs continue to fall.

Binder Jetting

An industrial process that deposits a liquid binder onto powder material (metal, ceramic, or sand) to form layers. Faster than laser-based metal printing but requires sintering in a furnace afterward. Used for casting molds and production metal parts.

Part 2: Filaments & Materials

Material selection is one of the most important decisions in 3D printing. Each material has unique properties, print requirements, and ideal use cases. Understanding filament-related 3D printing terminology helps you match the right material to every project. For detailed material comparisons, visit our PLA vs ABS guide or explore the PETG vs PLA breakdown.

Common FDM Filament Types

PLA (Polylactic Acid)

The most popular filament for beginners. PLA is made from renewable resources like cornstarch, is easy to print, nearly odorless, and biodegradable under industrial conditions. It prints at low temperatures (180-220 degrees C) and does not require a heated bed, though one improves adhesion. Drawbacks include low heat resistance (softens around 60 degrees C) and brittleness compared to engineering filaments. In 2026, high-speed PLA variants optimized for fast printers are widely available, and matte PLA has become popular for hiding surface artifacts from rapid acceleration.

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

A strong, impact-resistant filament used in 3D printing since the early days. ABS requires higher print temperatures (220-260 degrees C), a heated bed (90-110 degrees C), and an enclosed printer to prevent warping. It emits fumes during printing — always ventilate your workspace or use filtration. Best for functional parts that need moderate heat resistance and durability.

Quick comparison of the two most common 3D printing materials:

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)

Often described as the best of both worlds between PLA and ABS. PETG is easy to print (230-250 degrees C), has excellent layer adhesion, is slightly flexible, moisture-resistant, and food-safe when printed correctly. Better heat resistance than PLA without ABS’s warping tendency. A go-to material for functional parts, bottles, and mechanical components.

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane)

A flexible filament that produces rubber-like prints. Used for phone cases, gaskets, shoe insoles, and anything that needs to flex or compress. Print slowly (20-30mm/s) at moderate temperatures (220-240 degrees C). Direct drive extruders handle TPU far better than Bowden setups.

Nylon (PA)

An engineering-grade filament with excellent toughness, flexibility, and wear resistance. Nylon is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air), which causes poor print quality if the filament is not dried before use. Requires high temperatures (240-270 degrees C) and an enclosure. Widely used for mechanical parts, hinges, and gears.

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate)

A UV-resistant alternative to ABS with similar mechanical properties. ASA is the go-to material for outdoor applications such as garden items, automotive exterior parts, and anything exposed to sustained sunlight. Print requirements are similar to ABS.

PC (Polycarbonate)

One of the strongest common 3D printing filaments. PC has exceptional impact resistance and heat tolerance (up to 110-130 degrees C). Challenging to print — requires temperatures of 260-310 degrees C, an enclosure, and very dry filament. Best for structural components under high stress or heat.

HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)

Most commonly used as a soluble support material alongside ABS. HIPS dissolves in limonene, making support removal effortless. Can also be printed standalone for lightweight, rigid parts.

PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)

A water-soluble filament used exclusively as a support material alongside PLA or PETG in dual-extrusion or multi-material printers. PVA supports simply dissolve in water, enabling complex geometries that would otherwise be impossible to print.

Composite & Specialty Filaments

Carbon Fiber (CF) Filaments

Carbon fiber-infused variants of standard filaments (PLA-CF, PETG-CF, Nylon-CF). Short carbon fibers blended into the polymer dramatically increase stiffness and strength while reducing weight. CF filaments have a matte finish that naturally hides layer lines. Critical: these filaments are highly abrasive and will rapidly destroy a standard brass nozzle. Always use a hardened steel nozzle with CF filaments.

Glass Fiber (GF) Filaments

Similar to carbon fiber composites but infused with glass fibers instead. GF filaments offer improved stiffness over the base material and are slightly less abrasive than CF variants, making them a cost-effective option for reinforced functional parts.

Wood, Metal & Ceramic Filaments

Filaments blended with real wood particles, metal powder, or ceramic material suspended in a PLA base. These produce prints with unique textures and finishes — wood filaments can be sanded and stained; metal filaments can be polished. Not structurally equivalent to actual wood or metal but popular for artistic and decorative applications.

Resin (Photopolymer)

The liquid material used in SLA, MSLA, and DLP printers. Resin cures when exposed to UV light. Types include standard resin (affordable, brittle), ABS-like resin (tougher), water-washable resin (no IPA needed), flexible resin, castable resin (for jewelry), and engineering resins with high toughness or thermal resistance.

Part 3: Printer Hardware

Understanding printer hardware is central to 3D printing terminology. Knowing what each component does helps you upgrade, maintain, and troubleshoot more effectively. Upgrading your hardware can dramatically improve print quality, especially when paired with the best 3D printer nozzles or a reliable controller board.

Motion Systems

Cartesian Printer

A printer where the print head moves along three independent axes (X, Y, Z). The most common and straightforward design — easy to understand and calibrate, but can be slower than CoreXY designs at very high speeds.

CoreXY

A motion system where the print head is driven by two belts in a coordinated way, decoupling X and Y movement across both motors. CoreXY allows faster and more stable movement than traditional Cartesian systems because less mass is in motion. CoreXY printers dominate the high-speed segment in 2026.

Delta Printer

A printer with three arms arranged in a triangle that work together to position the print head. Delta printers can move very quickly and excel at tall, cylindrical objects. Calibration is more complex than Cartesian or CoreXY designs.

Bed Slinger

Informal 3D printing terminology for a Cartesian printer design where the print bed moves back and forth on the Y-axis while the print head moves on X and Z. Common in entry-level printers like the Creality Ender series. Bed slingers can struggle with print quality at very high speeds because the moving bed mass creates vibration.

Belt Printer

A non-traditional printer design where the print bed is a conveyor belt, allowing infinitely long prints in the belt direction. Primarily used in batch production environments and print farms.

Extruder & Hotend

Extruder

The mechanism responsible for feeding (pushing or pulling) filament into the hotend. The extruder is the motor assembly only — not the part that melts the filament. Confusing the extruder with the hotend is one of the most common mistakes in 3D printing terminology. They are separate components that work together.

Direct Drive Extruder

An extruder mounted directly on the print carriage, directly above the hotend. Because the filament path from motor to nozzle is very short, direct drive handles flexible filaments like TPU far better than Bowden setups and allows for precise, fast retraction.

Bowden Extruder

An extruder mounted away from the hotend (usually on the printer frame), connected by a PTFE tube that guides filament to the nozzle. Bowden setups reduce carriage mass (benefiting speed in some designs) but struggle with flexible filaments and require more retraction tuning.

Hotend

The heated assembly that melts filament for deposition. The hotend consists of the heat block, heater cartridge, thermistor, heat break, and nozzle. The hotend melts the filament; the extruder feeds it — they are distinct parts.

All-Metal Hotend

A hotend with a metal heat break and no PTFE lining near the nozzle, enabling printing at temperatures above 240 degrees C without degrading PTFE. Required for high-temperature filaments like PC, Nylon, and most composite materials.

Nozzle

The small metal tip at the end of the hotend through which molten filament is extruded. Nozzle diameter (typically 0.2-1.0mm) affects detail and print speed. Nozzle material matters: brass for standard filaments; hardened steel for abrasive filaments (CF, GF); ruby-tipped for maximum lifespan.

Heat Break

The narrow metal tube connecting the hot zone (heat block) to the cold zone (heatsink). It creates a thermal barrier to prevent heat from creeping upward and melting filament before it reaches the nozzle — a problem called heat creep.

Volumetric Flow Rate

The maximum volume of filament a hotend can melt and extrude per second, measured in cubic millimeters per second (mm3/s). This is the fundamental limiting factor in high-speed 3D printing. Standard hotends manage 10-15 mm3/s; high-flow hotends can exceed 30-40 mm3/s.

Print Bed

Print Bed / Build Plate

The flat surface on which prints are built. Print beds may be heated or unheated and are made from various materials including glass, PEI (polyetherimide), garolite, or flexible spring steel with a magnetic base.

PEI Sheet

A popular build surface material that offers excellent adhesion for most filaments when warm and releases prints easily once cooled. Available as textured (adds matte texture to print bottoms) or smooth. One of the most recommended upgrades for any FDM printer.

Heated Bed

A print bed with a built-in heating element. A heated bed reduces warping by keeping lower layers warm during printing. Required for ABS; recommended for PETG; optional for PLA.

Bed Leveling / Tramming

The process of ensuring the print bed is at a consistent, correct distance from the nozzle across its entire surface. Proper bed leveling is critical for first layer adhesion. Manual tramming uses adjustment knobs; automatic systems use a probe.

Mesh Bed Leveling / ABL (Automatic Bed Leveling)

An automated system where a probe measures the height of the print bed at multiple points, generating a surface mesh map. The printer compensates for these variations in real time, making a perfectly flat bed far less critical.

Z-Offset

The calibrated distance between the nozzle tip and the print bed surface at the home position. Dialing in the correct Z-offset is one of the first and most critical calibrations for a good first layer.

Cooling & Enclosures

Part Cooling Fan

A fan that blows air onto freshly extruded filament to solidify it quickly. Essential for overhangs, bridges, and fine detail. PLA benefits from aggressive cooling; ABS and ASA should print with little to no part cooling to prevent cracking.

Enclosure

A housing that encloses the printer to maintain an elevated ambient temperature around the print. Necessary for ABS and ASA to prevent warping; beneficial for Nylon and PC as well.

HEPA / Carbon Filtration

Air filtration used with enclosed printers to capture particles and VOCs (volatile organic compounds) emitted during printing. ABS in particular emits styrene fumes. Filtration is increasingly built into commercial enclosures in 2026.

Part 4: Software & Slicing

Slicer software translates a 3D model into printer instructions. Fluency with slicer-related 3D printing terms directly impacts your print quality. If you’re looking for the best tools, check out our best slicer guide for 2026 or explore free 3D modeling software.

Slicer

Software that converts a 3D model (typically an STL or 3MF file) into G-code — the layer-by-layer instructions your printer follows. Popular slicers in 2026 include Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, Cura, and Simplify3D. Modern slicers show a layer-by-layer preview before printing.

G-code

The standardized machine language used to control 3D printers. G-code commands tell the printer where to move, how fast, when to heat, and when to extrude. Slicers generate G-code automatically, but basic familiarity helps with troubleshooting.

STL (Standard Tessellation Language)

The most common file format for 3D printing models. STL describes only the surface geometry of a model using triangular facets, with no color, material, or scale information.

3MF (3D Manufacturing Format)

A modern 3D printing file format that supersedes STL in most professional workflows. 3MF stores geometry, color, materials, textures, print settings, and scale in a single file. The preferred format in most modern slicers.

Klipper Firmware

An advanced open-source firmware that offloads motion calculations from the printer board to a secondary processor (typically a Raspberry Pi). This enables faster speeds, more precise control, and advanced features like input shaping and pressure advance. Klipper is the dominant choice for performance-focused DIY printers in 2026.

Marlin Firmware

The most widely used open-source firmware for FDM printers. Runs directly on the printer’s control board and is the default on most commercial machines. Highly configurable and well-documented.

Cloud Slicing & Remote Printing

Modern ecosystems allow slicing and sending print jobs remotely via mobile apps or web browsers. Particularly valuable for print farms, remote monitoring, and multi-printer setups.

OrcaSlicer

A popular open-source slicer in 2026 derived from BambuStudio and PrusaSlicer, offering advanced calibration tools, multi-printer support, and compatibility with virtually all FDM printers. Favored by advanced users for its flow rate, pressure advance, and resonance calibration workflows.

Part 5: Print Settings

These 3D printing terms refer to the parameters you configure in your slicer before printing. Mastering these settings is the fastest path to improving quality and reliability. Need help tuning? Our miniature printing guide breaks down optimal settings for high-detail work.

Layer Height

The thickness of each printed layer, measured in millimeters. Lower heights (0.1mm) produce smoother, more detailed prints but take longer. Higher heights (0.3-0.4mm) print faster with more visible layer lines. Keep layer height between 25% and 75% of your nozzle diameter for best results.

Line Width / Extrusion Width

The width of each extruded line of filament. Usually set equal to or slightly wider than the nozzle diameter. Wider lines improve layer bonding and strength; narrower lines increase detail.

Infill

The internal structure printed inside a solid model. Infill affects strength, weight, and material usage. Common patterns include grid, gyroid, honeycomb, lines, and cubic. Gyroid is popular in 2026 for its isotropic strength (equal strength in all directions) and excellent top surface support.

Infill Percentage

The density of the infill, expressed as a percentage of the model’s interior volume. 0% = hollow; 100% = completely solid. Most functional prints use 15-25%; decorative prints use 5-10%; structural parts may need 50-100%.

Perimeters / Walls / Shells

The solid outer vertical layers forming the print surface. More walls increase strength and surface quality. Typically 2-4 perimeters for most prints.

Top / Bottom Layers

The number of solid layers at the top and bottom surfaces of a model to close off the infill. 4-6 layers is typical for a smooth, solid surface.

Print Speed

How fast the print head moves during extrusion, in millimeters per second (mm/s). High-speed printers in 2026 routinely run at 200-600mm/s for perimeters, enabled by CoreXY motion, input shaping, pressure advance, and high-flow hotends.

Retraction

A setting that briefly pulls filament backward when the nozzle travels between printed areas, preventing oozing and stringing. Key parameters are retraction distance and speed. Direct drive: typically 0.5-2mm. Bowden: typically 4-7mm.

Temperature (Nozzle / Bed)

Target temperatures for the hotend and print bed. Each filament has a recommended range. Too cold causes poor adhesion and under-extrusion; too hot causes stringing, blobs, and material degradation.

Fan Speed

The speed of the part cooling fan during printing, as a percentage. High fan speeds improve overhangs and detail for PLA; low or zero fan is recommended for ABS, ASA, and some Nylon variants.

Supports

Temporary structures printed beneath overhanging geometry to prevent sagging. Removed after printing. Slicer software generates them automatically. Support interface layers (a denser contact layer) improve surface quality where supports touch the model.

Overhang

Any section of a model extending horizontally beyond the layer below it. FDM printers typically handle up to 45 degrees unsupported; steeper angles require supports or careful bridge settings.

Bridging

Printing a horizontal span between two supported points with no material underneath. Successful bridging requires balanced print speed, temperature, and part cooling.

Seam / Z-Seam

The point where each layer starts and ends, leaving a small visible mark on the surface. Slicers can align seams in a hidden corner (aligned), spread them randomly, or place them at the sharpest corner (smart seam).

Ironing

A slicer post-processing pass where the nozzle slowly smooths top surfaces with minimal extrusion after completing them, producing a near-flat, polished result at the cost of additional print time.

Extrusion Multiplier / Flow Rate

A scaling factor applied to the amount of filament extruded. If set to 1.0, the printer extrudes exactly as calculated. Increasing it compensates for under-extrusion; decreasing it compensates for over-extrusion. Properly calibrating flow rate is one of the most impactful tuning steps.

Part 6: Quality & Troubleshooting

Every 3D printer user encounters quality issues. Knowing this 3D printing terminology accelerates diagnosis and fixes. Stuck with a clog? Follow our complete nozzle cleaning guide or learn how to unclog stubborn jams.

Stringing

Thin filament threads left between printed sections as the nozzle travels across open space. Caused by filament oozing during travel moves. Fixed by optimizing retraction, lowering print temperature, or increasing travel speed.

Warping

When corners or edges of a print lift off the bed during printing due to thermal contraction. Common with ABS and large flat prints. Prevented with a heated bed, enclosure, brim, or adhesion aids like glue stick or PEI.

Layer Separation / Delamination

When printed layers fail to bond and split apart. Caused by printing too cold, too fast, excessive part cooling, or poor filament quality. Increase print temperature or reduce speed.

Under-Extrusion

When the printer deposits less filament than intended, resulting in gaps, thin walls, and weak parts. Causes include a clogged nozzle, incorrect flow rate, Bowden tube gap, or too low a print temperature.

Over-Extrusion

When too much filament is deposited, causing blobby surfaces and poor dimensional accuracy. Fix by reducing the extrusion multiplier or flow rate.

Ghosting / Ringing

Wavy surface artifacts near sharp corners caused by vibrations during rapid direction changes. Reduced by slowing down, tightening belts, improving frame rigidity, or enabling input shaping.

Elephant’s Foot

When the first layer(s) squish out wider than intended, creating a flared base. Caused by the nozzle being too close to the bed, too high a bed temperature, or insufficient first-layer cooling.

Clog / Jam

A blockage in the nozzle or hotend preventing proper extrusion. Caused by debris, carbonized filament, heat creep, or printing too cold. Resolved by cold pulls, nozzle cleaning, or nozzle replacement.

Cold Pull

A maintenance technique for cleaning a clogged nozzle. Filament is pushed in, cooled to an intermediate temperature, then pulled out sharply — bringing debris with it. Also called an atomic pull.

Brim

Extra lines printed around the base perimeter of a model (not under it) to increase bed adhesion and reduce warping. Especially useful for small contact areas or warp-prone materials.

Raft

A flat platform printed under the entire model to maximize bed adhesion. Covers the full footprint of the print. Rarely needed with modern printers and build surfaces but helpful for extremely difficult materials.

Spaghetti (Failed Print)

Informal 3D printing terminology for a catastrophic failure where the print detaches from the bed and the nozzle continues extruding into empty air, producing a tangled mass of filament. AI monitoring systems in 2026 printers are trained specifically to detect this and halt the print automatically.

Heat Creep

When heat migrates up from the heat block into the cold zone of the hotend, softening filament prematurely and causing a partial clog. Prevented by ensuring the heatsink fan runs continuously and using an all-metal hotend for high-temperature materials.

Wet Filament

Filament that has absorbed atmospheric moisture, causing popping, crackling, stringing, and poor layer adhesion during printing. Hygroscopic filaments (Nylon, PVA, TPU, PETG) are especially susceptible. Dried in a filament dryer or oven before printing.

Part 7: Advanced 3D Printing Terms (2026)

These advanced 3D printing terms reflect where the technology stands in 2026 — faster speeds, smarter firmware, and greater automation than ever before. Want to explore the latest machines? Check our best printers under $1000 or dive into dual extrusion systems.

Input Shaping (Resonance Compensation)

A firmware feature that measures the resonant frequencies of a printer’s frame and motion system using an accelerometer, then actively cancels those vibrations during printing. Input shaping dramatically reduces ghosting and ringing artifacts, enabling significantly higher print speeds without sacrificing surface quality. Now standard on most high-speed printers.

Pressure Advance (Linear Advance)

A firmware algorithm that compensates for pressure buildup inside the nozzle during acceleration and deceleration. By adjusting filament feed slightly ahead of movement changes, pressure advance produces sharper corners, cleaner lines, and fewer blobs — particularly important at high speeds.

AMS (Automatic Material System) / MMU (Multi-Material Unit)

Systems that enable automatic multi-color or multi-material printing using a single nozzle. The printer switches between filament spools automatically, enabling 4-16 color or material prints. Modern AMS systems (popularized by Bambu Lab) have made multi-color FDM printing mainstream in 2026. Trade-offs include additional time for filament switching and material waste from purge towers.

Purge Tower / Wipe Tower

A sacrificial structure printed alongside a multi-material print. During filament changes, the printer purges old color into this tower before printing on the model, preventing color contamination. Discarded after printing.

AI Monitoring & Smart Features

Increasingly standard on 2026 printers. AI-powered cameras and computer vision detect spaghetti failures, inspect first layers for adhesion issues, monitor nozzle condition, and track filament runout. These features significantly reduce wasted filament and failed prints during unattended printing.

Lidar / First Layer Scanning

Some advanced printers use lidar sensors to scan the first layer and automatically calibrate flow rate and Z-offset. This eliminates manual flow calibration and dramatically simplifies setup, particularly when switching filament types.

High-Speed Printing

A category of FDM printing that pushes speeds to 200-600mm/s or beyond. Made possible by CoreXY motion, input shaping, pressure advance, and high-flow hotends. In 2026 this is mainstream rather than niche.

Voron

A popular open-source, community-designed CoreXY printer. Voron printers are self-sourced and self-assembled, run Klipper firmware, and are considered the gold standard of DIY high-performance printing. The Voron 2.4 and Trident are the most popular models.

Benchy (3DBenchy)

The universally recognized test print in 3D printing — a small tugboat model designed to simultaneously test overhangs, bridging, fine detail, stringing, and surface quality. Running a Benchy is the standard way to validate printer calibration and compare performance between machines.

Cantilevered vs. Dual-Rail Z-Axis

A cantilevered Z-axis has the X-axis gantry supported on one side only. A dual-rail system supports both sides, providing greater stability, reduced gantry sag, and better consistency on large-format printers.

Print Farm

A setup using multiple 3D printers running simultaneously to produce parts in volume. Common in small-batch manufacturing, education, and prosumer businesses. Automation features like belt printers, remote monitoring, and cloud slicing make print farms increasingly practical.

Part 8: Post-Processing Terms

Finishing your prints correctly transforms them from prototype-looking to professional-grade. Learn more about resin post-processing or explore the top filament dryers for better material prep.

Support Removal

The process of removing support structures after printing. FDM supports are snapped or cut off with pliers or flush cutters. Soluble supports (PVA, HIPS) dissolve in water or limonene. Resin supports are clipped with flush cutters.

Sanding & Smoothing

FDM prints have visible layer lines that can be reduced by sanding with progressively finer sandpaper (typically 120 to 2000 grit). ABS prints can be smoothed further with acetone vapor, which melts the surface into a glossy finish. Resin prints typically require less sanding due to their inherently smooth surface.

Priming & Painting

Most 3D printed parts accept spray primer and acrylic or enamel paint well. Filler primer fills small surface imperfections and provides a uniform base. Painting is a key step for display models, cosplay props, and figurines.

Resin Washing

After resin printing, parts are washed in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a purpose-made wash solution to remove uncured resin from the surface. Done before UV curing. Requires proper ventilation, gloves, and eye protection.

UV Curing

Resin prints must be exposed to UV light after printing to fully harden the photopolymer. Under-cured prints are brittle, sticky, and potentially skin-irritating. Over-cured prints can become discolored or more brittle. Wash-and-cure stations are purpose-built for this process.

Annealing

A heat treatment process used on printed PLA or PETG parts to relieve internal stresses and improve heat resistance. Annealed PLA parts can tolerate significantly higher temperatures but may warp slightly during the process.

Electroplating

An advanced post-processing technique where 3D printed parts are coated in a thin layer of metal (typically copper, nickel, or chrome) via an electrochemical process. Produces metallic-looking, durable parts from a plastic base print.

FAQ: 3D Printing Terminology

What are the most important 3D printing terms for beginners?

The most important terms to learn first are: filament, slicer, infill, layer height, retraction, bed leveling, and Z-offset. Understanding these seven concepts allows you to set up your printer correctly and diagnose the most common quality issues from the start.

What is the difference between FDM and SLA?

FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) melts plastic filament and deposits it layer by layer — it is beginner-friendly, affordable, and supports a wide range of materials. SLA (Stereolithography) uses UV light to cure liquid resin — it produces smoother, higher-detail prints at smaller scales but requires more post-processing. Both are now widely accessible to consumers.

What does infill mean in 3D printing?

Infill refers to the internal structure printed inside a solid model. It is expressed as a percentage — 0% means hollow, 100% means completely solid. The infill pattern and density directly affect strength, weight, material usage, and print time.

What is the difference between the extruder and the hotend?

This is one of the most commonly confused pairs in all of 3D printing terminology. The extruder is the motor assembly that pushes or pulls filament. The hotend is the heated component that melts it. They are separate, independently upgradeable parts — the extruder feeds; the hotend melts.

What is input shaping and do I need it?

Input shaping (resonance compensation) is a firmware feature that cancels vibrations in the printer frame during fast movement. If you want to print at high speeds without ghosting or ringing artifacts on your surfaces, input shaping is essential. It is now standard on most high-speed printers in 2026 and can be enabled in Klipper on older printers.

What filament should a beginner start with?

PLA is universally recommended for beginners. It prints at low temperatures, needs no heated bed or enclosure, is widely available, and comes in hundreds of colors. Once comfortable with PLA, most users progress to PETG for functional parts, then explore specialty filaments as their needs evolve.

What is a slicer in 3D printing terminology?

A slicer is the software that converts a 3D model file (STL or 3MF) into the G-code instructions your printer actually executes. The slicer controls all print settings — layer height, speed, temperature, supports, infill — and generates a preview of every layer before printing. Popular options in 2026 include OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, and PrusaSlicer.