Best 3D Printer Filament Brand

Which filament is suitable for what and which printer settings are specifically used? In this article I would not only like to describe different types of filaments such as PLA, PETG, TPU in more detail, no, I would also like to specify which filament brand I have already had good or bad experience with. I like to test a new filament, a new color or a different brand with different 3D printers. I test the print with different settings (temperatures, speed etc.) because sometimes these even vary with the color of the same manufacturer. So here you get specific tips on many filaments, the list is constantly being updated.

Filament test and comparison

No filament theory but concrete values ​​for printing temperature, printing speed and more

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This article is aimed primarily at 3D printer beginners, but also at experienced 3D printing fans who may have bought a new filament and want to quickly find out at which speeds and temperatures it is best to print it. The information from providers is not always reliable, I have very often had bad experiences here. Sometimes completely different information is given for the same filament depending on the provider, sometimes even with serious differences. Unfortunately, I also had to find out that many tutorials and YouTube videos explain a lot of theoretical information about filaments, but concrete values ​​are very rarely given for individual filaments. I think that’s a shame, especially for beginners.
I therefore list my own experiences and the most important basic settings for specific filament offers from retailers but also Amazon offers in addition to the supplier information. These recommendations are all based on my personal experience printing with the Artillery Genius , Sidewinder and Flsun Q5 . As a rule, these values ​​can also be used on most other 3D printers. Of course, there can be slight differences depending on the model, especially because the printers sometimes measure or distribute the temperature with different degrees of accuracy.
Of course, all recommendations are not set in stone and are final. Over time, small changes can improve the pressure even more. Should I find this out, I will add or correct it on this page. You are also welcome to leave your specific tips or suggestions for improvement to any filament in the comments. As soon as I’ve verified that, I’ll add that in the article too. So this page will be constantly expanded, of course with new filament types and brands.

How do I test filament?

Whenever I get a new filament, I do various tests with the famous 3DBenchy and other test models that show very well where the filament or the 3D printer has problems. You can find some of the test models that I like to use a little further down in the list with a download link, so you are welcome to try them out yourself.
Above all, it is important to me to find out which speed, temperature and fan cooling can be used with the filament so that it adheres well to the print bed. As a print bed I use an Ultrabase variant, as it is built into common printers such as the Artillery Genius or Sidewinder. In other words, a specially coated glass plate with heating.
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I also judge whether overhangs and bridges can be printed well with the filament but also how the surface and color look. Since I mainly print parts that are subject to some mechanical stress, I always make sure that the layer adheres well.
And very important, I also test how easily the support structure can be removed from the respective material. The latter is very different, with PLA the support structure can often be removed very easily, with PETG a little more difficult and with TPU often not at all. If you know this you can take it into account when drawing an object or when making a selection. In the case of TPU, for example, you should primarily look for models without any necessary support structure. In addition, I will give you hints if warping has occurred with a filament and you should rather print a small margin around it. As already mentioned, this list is constantly being expanded and modified, if only because I use it myself to look it up in case I have forgotten something.

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Download links to 3D printer test models that I use often

What filaments are there?

Before I name specific brands and sources of supply, I would like to briefly explain what properties the individual filament types have and where they are best used.Each filament type has its advantages and disadvantages, so you should carefully consider which filament for which 3D model you use . All filament types that I name here are supported by most 3D printers.

PLA filament (polyactide)

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PLA is the abbreviation for polyactide, also known as polylactic acid, it is a synthetic polymer which is obtained from renewable and natural raw materials such as corn. This filament is by far the most used in private 3D printing, especially because it can be printed very easily and cleanly. Especially when starting out for the first time, it is advisable to always start with a roll of PLA before switching to other types of filament. PLA does not produce any plastic odor during printing and adheres very well to the print bed. It is often advertised that PLA is biodegradable, this is true, but you should consider that this can take up to 50 years! The material therefore lasts very long indoors, it is even very UV-resistant, but only very moderately weatherproof, it is hardly suitable for outdoor use. You can paint it, however, and thus make it weatherproof. It is also easy to sand and glue. As a rule, PLA has good mechanical properties, such as high surface hardness and rigidity. Unfortunately, PLA is not particularly impact-resistant. Models that fall down or are subjected to heavy mechanical loads can break relatively quickly. The advantage is that it does not tend to warping (loosening of the lower layer when the temperature changes) during printing. The disadvantage of PLA is that models printed with it only remain dimensionally stable up to approx. 65 ° C, so models can warp in direct sunlight, which is another reason why it is not suitable for outdoor use. . By the way, PLA is too You can paint it, however, and thus make it weatherproof. It is also easy to sand and glue. As a rule, PLA has good mechanical properties, such as high surface hardness and rigidity. Unfortunately, PLA is not particularly impact-resistant. Models that fall down or are subjected to heavy mechanical loads can break relatively quickly. The advantage is that it does not tend to warping (loosening of the lower layer when the temperature changes) during printing. The disadvantage of PLA is that models printed with it only remain dimensionally stable up to approx. 65 ° C, so models can warp in direct sunlight, which is another reason why it is not suitable for outdoor use. . By the way, PLA is too You can paint it, however, and thus make it weatherproof. It is also easy to sand and glue. As a rule, PLA has good mechanical properties, such as high surface hardness and rigidity. Unfortunately, PLA is not particularly impact-resistant. Models that fall down or are subjected to heavy mechanical loads can break relatively quickly. The advantage is that it does not tend to warping (loosening of the lower layer when the temperature changes) during printing. The disadvantage of PLA is that models printed with it only remain dimensionally stable up to approx. 65 ° C, so models can warp in direct sunlight, which is another reason why it is not suitable for outdoor use. . By the way, PLA is too As a rule, PLA has good mechanical properties, such as high surface hardness and rigidity. Unfortunately, PLA is not particularly impact-resistant. Models that fall down or are subjected to heavy mechanical loads can break relatively quickly. The advantage is that it does not tend to warping (loosening of the lower layer when the temperature changes) during printing. The disadvantage of PLA is that models printed with it only remain dimensionally stable up to approx. 65 ° C, so models can warp in direct sunlight, which is another reason why it is not suitable for outdoor use. . By the way, PLA is too As a rule, PLA has good mechanical properties, such as high surface hardness and rigidity. Unfortunately, PLA is not particularly impact-resistant. Models that fall down or are subjected to heavy mechanical loads can break relatively quickly. The advantage is that it does not tend to warping (loosening of the lower layer when the temperature changes) during printing. The disadvantage of PLA is that models printed with it only remain dimensionally stable up to approx. 65 ° C, so models can warp in direct sunlight, which is another reason why it is not suitable for outdoor use. . By the way, PLA is too can break relatively quickly. The advantage is that it does not tend to warping (loosening of the lower layer when the temperature changes) during printing. The disadvantage of PLA is that models printed with it only remain dimensionally stable up to approx. 65 ° C, so models can warp in direct sunlight, which is another reason why it is not suitable for outdoor use. . By the way, PLA is too can break relatively quickly. The advantage is that it does not tend to warping (loosening of the lower layer when the temperature changes) during printing. The disadvantage of PLA is that models printed with it only remain dimensionally stable up to approx. 65 ° C, so models can warp in direct sunlight, which is another reason why it is not suitable for outdoor use. . By the way, PLA is tooResistant to acetone . Another advantage of PLA is that it can usually be printed very quickly, standard values ​​are 60-80mm / sec at approx. 210 ° C.
Overall, one can say that PLA is particularly suitable for models that are used indoors and only moderately burdened. For decorative objects, figures and sculptures, for example, it is ideal, especially since PLA is available in many colors and types of gloss (see list below) and any support structures that may be present can be easily removed.

PETG filament (polyethylene terephthalate)

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PETG is the abbreviation for polyethylene terephthalate. It has become a popular 3D printer filament because it is more impact-resistant and stable than PLA. Especially when you print 3D models that are mechanically more stressed, PETG is of great advantage, it simply does not break as quickly and thin structures also allow larger bending radii. PETG is based on the material PET, which is also used in PET bottles, for example. The “G” stands for “glycol modified”. This modification makes the filament clearer, less brittle, and easier to print. In the early days of 3D printing, ABS was mainly used to print stable models. PETG has replaced ABS quite a lot because PETG is much easier to print than ABS and lasts almost as well. PETG is like a good middle ground between ABS and PLA, it is more flexible, more temperature-resistant and durable than PLA and yet almost as easy to print as PLA. PETG also has the advantage that the base material is almost transparent and weatherproof. PETG can therefore also be used outdoors, it is available in both transparent and many colors. PETG is just as easy to print as PLA, only higher temperatures are required. Depending on the manufacturer, the printing temperature is often between 220 and 250 ° C. As a rule, the print bed should also be heated to a higher temperature, often between 70 and 90 ° C, otherwise it does not adhere quite as well as PLA. The small disadvantage of PETG is that it sometimes tends to warp, so I recommend printing PETG objects with a small edge (apron) so that it does not detach from the print bed over time. If you keep this in mind, you will have no problems printing with PETG. PETG is also easy to grind, drill or glue with epoxy resin.
PETG can be used universally in practice, especially if the 3D models are functional (e.g. gears, tires, tools) or are subject to higher mechanical loads, PETG is highly recommended. You can also print decorative objects, figures and sculptures with it, even if they are used outdoors. PETG models are also UV and temperature resistant up to 80 ° C. With many brands, the support structure can be removed very easily and cleanly, even with PETG, which I also list below.

TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane)

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TPU stands for thermoplastic polyurethane. TPU behaves a bit like rubber, so it remains flexible. So you always use it when a 3D model is supposed to become rubbery. You can use it to print real tires for model cars, even shoe soles have already been printed with it. In functional 3D models, it is sometimes used as a shock absorber or seal. TPU is available in different degrees of hardness, these are usually specified as the so-called Shore hardness A number. The lower the A number, the softer and more elastic the material. A value of A98 is about medium hard and a value of A88 is already quite soft. TPU is usually very easy to print, as the adhesion is usually very good. It is usually printed at 220 ° C and a bed temperature of around 50 ° C, Depending on the brand and manufacturer, there are sometimes big differences, so see our filament list below. When printing, however, you have to make sure that the 3D printer used is suitable for TPU. Good guidance when guiding the filament is particularly important here, as otherwise the soft material will go wrong. 3D printers with direct extruder often have an advantage here, most newer 3D printers such asArtillery Geniusetc. are well suited for this. Usually TPU has little or no tendency to warping, but there are differences here too. With some brands, I advise printing a small border (apron) so that the filament does not come off the print bed, with some brands you can do without it (we will state below). Models printed with TPU can easily be removed from the print bed after printing, often even when the print bed is warm. A disadvantage of TPU is that support structures are often difficult to remove afterwards, so you should, if possible, print models that do not require a support structure. Bridges and overhangs are often not as printable with TPU as with PETG or PLA. TPU has the advantage that it is largely weatherproof and even resistant to oils and fats. It is mechanically very resilient and largely unbreakable thanks to its flexibility. The hardness and flexibility of the material can also be influenced within certain limits by the degree of filling. Models with 100% are of course much less flexible than with a filling of 5 or 15%.

 

ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)

ABS stands for acrylonitrile butadiene styrene and is a synthetic polymer that is made from the individual monomers acrylonitrile, 1.3 butadiene and styrene. ABS is particularly impact-resistant and resistant to oils / fats and can withstand high temperatures. However, it is only moderately weather-resistant. In the past, ABS was used very often in 3D printing when the models had to be particularly impact-resistant and stable. Today ABS is used much less often because it has been replaced by PETG. PETG has the advantage that it is much easier to print. Unfortunately, with ABS there are always problems with pressure bed adhesion. Here you often have to use tools such as adhesive spray, BlueTape or other tricks. For this reason, the material is not suitable for beginners. In addition, ABS causes unpleasant smells when printing, which is not for everyone. Printed ABS models are very impact-resistant and can be processed in a variety of ways. Milling, grinding, gluing, painting and drilling are unproblematic.
I haven’t used ABS myself yet, I also prefer PETG. Therefore, I cannot currently recommend any specific filaments in this regard. Should I ever need ABS, I will add ABS to the list accordingly.

 

Filament test of different filament brands and types

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So here is the list of the filament that I use and thus was able to test. I will list here how satisfied I am with the respective filament and which settings (temperature / speed etc.) I use for this filament and can therefore recommend it. I also mention which filament is my favorite filament in the respective filament type and where you can get the individual filament rolls. I am linking you to my source of supply. I also try to list a few pictures of 3D models for each filament that I have printed with the respective filament.
Unless otherwise specified for the respective filament, I use a retraction setting of 2mm, an extrusion multiplier of 1.0 and an extrusion width of 0.4mm. With the slicer Simplify3D you can set this on the first settings page. Furthermore, I only print the first layer at 25% and the contours at 50% of the maximum speed. Infill and support structure are usually printed at 80% of the speed. I prefer to print with a layer height of 0.2mm. All these values ​​can of course be further optimized if you like. I would like to recommend to beginners that the first layer, i.e. the bottom layer, is always the most important when printing. Once the first layer has been properly printed, the whole model usually works. For this reason I choose settings here that are on the safe side.

 

PLA filament – particularly easy to print

Eryone PLA Silk Filament color shade copper

My favorite filament in PLA. It is wonderfully easy to print, does not make threads, adheres very well and has the best color tone I have ever seen with filament. Copper really looks like copper here, it looks so real that you could really mistake it for real copper. The surfaces are nice and clean, smooth and slightly shiny. Price is okay too.
My preferred printing temperature is 210 ° C as with almost all PLA.

  • Printing temperature – manufacturer information: 190 ℃ – 220 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 30-60 mm / s
  • My preferred printing temperature: 210 ° C.
  • My preferred print speed: 60mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 80 ° C
  • Fan: 100% from shift two
  • My extrusion multiplier:   0.9
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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GEEETECH PLA filament color Glows / fluorescent

I sometimes use it when an object should light up at night. Does what it should, although the fluorescent effect could be a little stronger. It can be printed wonderfully, makes no threads, adheres very well.

  • Printing temperature provider information: 210 ℃ – 240 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 210 ° C.
  • My preferred print speed: 60mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 80 ° C
  • Fan: 100% from shift two
  • My extrusion multiplier:   0.9
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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GEEETECH PLA filament color shade white

One of my standard PLAs. It can be printed wonderfully, makes no threads, adheres very well. It’s also a very nice clean solid white. Thin layers allow some light through, but it does not appear transparent. Price is quite cheap. Even after a long period of storage, I have only had good experiences with this filament.

  • Printing temperature supplier information: 190 ℃ – 220 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 210 ° C.
  • My preferred print speed: 60mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 80 ° C
  • Fan: 100% from shift two
  • My extrusion multiplier:   0.9
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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SUNLU PLA filament red

Also one of my standard PLAs that I like to use again and again. It can be printed wonderfully, makes no threads, adheres very well. It comes very nicely packaged and wrapped, the price is good too. I use the usual printing temperature of 210 ° C.

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 200 ℃ – 230 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 50-100 mm / s
  • My preferred printing temperature: 210 ° C.
  • My preferred print speed: 60mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 80 ° C
  • Fan: 100% from shift two
  • My extrusion multiplier:   0.9
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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JANBEX PLA filament color black
Also a decent PLA which is also very cheap. It can be printed wonderfully, makes no threads, adheres very well. I use the usual printing temperature of 210 ° C. It is delivered neatly packaged, but is not always as nicely wrapped as the Sunlu Pla , but it did not cause any problems.

  • Printing temperature supplier information: 190 ℃ – 220 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 210 ° C.
  • My preferred print speed: 60mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 80 ° C
  • Fan: 100% from shift two
  • My extrusion multiplier:   0.9
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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Purchase: here via Amazon *

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JANBEX PLA filament blue

One of my standard PLAs when it comes to the color blue. It can be printed wonderfully, makes no threads, adheres very well. Price is quite cheap.

  • Printing temperature supplier information: 190 ℃ – 220 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 210 ° C.
  • My preferred print speed: 60mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 80 ° C
  • Fan: 100% from shift two
  • My extrusion multiplier:   0.9
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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Purchase: here via Amazon *


Eryone PLA filament shade gold

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Subsequently painted gold

In itself very good PLA, only the color is not great. For me it looks yellow instead of gold, a shame if you want gold. Fortunately, you can simply spray the filament with golden varnish, which makes it look a lot better. Since I don’t like the color, I always use this PLA when I want to spray PLA with a different color afterwards. It can be printed wonderfully, makes no threads, adheres very well. Price is okay too. I use the usual printing temperature of 210 ° C.

  • Printing temperature – manufacturer information: 190 ℃ – 220 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 30-60 mm / s
  • My preferred printing temperature: 210 ° C.
  • My preferred print speed: 60mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 80 ° C
  • Fan: 100% from shift two
  • My extrusion multiplier:   0.9
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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My PETG filament (more stable and a little more flexible than PLA)

SUNLU filament 1.75mm PETG transparent 

A transparent filament which stressed me a lot at the beginning because it didn’t stick. This was mainly due to the fact that the provider gave incorrect temperatures. I am now printing it with a bed temperature of 85 °, whereby I even use 90 ° for the first layer. I use 240 ° C for the extruder and 260 ° for the first layer. So I can print very nicely with the material at 40mm / sec. Every now and then it pulls a thread but I can live with that. The advantage of the PETG is that it is a little more stable than PLA, it does not break as quickly. Even small hooks with 0.5mm side walls are very shatterproof. However, transparent PETG is only really transparent in the thinnest layers; several layers often appear white. It therefore only looks really beautiful with suitable models.PETG gray * or white * from the same supplier.

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 220 ℃ – 250 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 50-100 mm / s
  • My preferred printing temperature: 240 ° C. (first layer 260 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40mm / s
  • My bed temperature : 85 ° C (first layer 90 ° C)
  • Fan: from shift four 25%, from shift six 40%, from shift eight 60%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours) which avoids loosening by warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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Purchase: here via Amazon * 

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SUNLU filament 1.75mm PETG gray – My current favorite!

Now my favorite and standard PETG filament for parts that are mechanically more stressed or things that I also use outdoors. It is very impact-resistant and can also be bent better in thin structures than PLA, for example. The middle gray is very beautiful and very universally applicable. I use 240 to 250 ° C for the extruder and 260 ° for the first layer. So I can print very nicely with the material at 40mm / sec, now almost as good as PLA. Below 260 ° there is hardly any stringing (threads). Bridges and overhangs are also no problem when printing. Even support structures can often be easily removed with this filament. The filament is well wound and is delivered well packaged. The price is in the lower range, so actually a real recommendation!

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 220 ℃ – 250 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 50-100 mm / s
  • My preferred printing temperature: 240 ° C. (first layer 260 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40mm / s
  • My bed temperature : 85 ° C (first layer 90 ° C)
  • Fan: from shift four 25%, from shift six 40%, from shift eight 60%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours) which avoids loosening by warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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Purchase: here via Amazon *


SUNLU filament 1.75mm PETG white

Also one of my favorite PETG filaments for parts that should be stable, impact-resistant and largely weatherproof. I use 240 to 250 ° C for the extruder and 260 ° for the first layer. So I can print very nicely with the material at 40 – 60mm / sec, without any problems. It hardly pulls threads (stringing) and even support structures can be easily and cleanly removed. For me, the color “white” is more like milk white, it is slightly transparent, so very translucent. For example, the filament is ideal for flash light reflectors (see picture). If you want the color, this PETG is also a real recommendation. Bridges and overhangs are also no problem when printing. The filament is well wound and is delivered well packaged. The price is in the lower range, hence actually real recommendation!

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 220 ℃ – 250 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 50-100 mm / s
  • My preferred printing temperature: 240 ° C. (first layer 260 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40-60mm / s
  • My bed temperature : 85 ° C (first layer 90 ° C)
  • Fan: from shift four 25%, from shift six 40%, from shift eight 60%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours), which safely avoids loosening through warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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Overture- PETG – Metallic Blue

I have only had one sample of this so far, so I do not have as much experience with this PETG as with others. However, the sample could be printed well, actually as good as my previously preferred Sunlu-Petg * , the stringing seems to be slightly higher here, but still within reasonable limits. I print it with a bed temperature of 85 °, whereby I even use 90 ° for the first layer. I use 240 ° C for the extruder and 260 ° for the first layer. So I can print very nicely with the material at 40mm / sec.

  • Print temperature manufacturer information: 210 ℃ – 240 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 240 ° C. (first layer 260 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40mm / s
  • My bed temperature : 85 ° C (first layer 90 ° C)
  • Fan: from shift four 25%, from shift six 40%, from shift eight 60%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours) which avoids loosening by warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

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Reference: Amazon

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Overture – PETG – grass green

Nice clear green. This PETG can also be printed quite well and easily, actually just as good as my previously preferred Sunlu-Petg . The stringing seems to be slightly higher here at times, but still within the limits. The stability seems just as good to me. I print it with a bed temperature of 85 °, whereby I even use a bed temperature of 90 ° C for the first layer. I use 240 ° C for the extruder and 260 ° for the first layer. So I can print very nicely with the material at 40mm / sec. Price is in the lower to middle range.

  • Print temperature manufacturer information: 210 ℃ – 240 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 240 ° C. (first layer 260 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40mm / s
  • My bed temperature : 85 ° C (first layer 90 ° C)
  • Fan: from shift four 25%, from shift six 40%, from shift eight 60%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours) which avoids loosening by warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 60

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DasFilament – PETG – Beige

This PETG has a nice, solid beige color and can actually be printed as well as my preferred Sunlu white *. I use the same settings, so to speak, 260 ° C for the first layer and 240 ° C for the rest. With speeds of 30 to 60mm, the result is very good. Support structures can also be removed afterwards with this filament, but a little more difficult than with the aforementioned Sulu-weiss. There is hardly any thread stringing, that is normal. The filament is also wound quite neatly, but I was given a filament roll with a broken edge (see picture). This first had to be glued so that the filament could be unrolled, I hope that this remains an isolated case. Price is in the lower to middle range.

  • Print temperature manufacturer information: 210 ℃ – 240 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 240 ° C. (first layer 260 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40-60mm / s
  • My bed temperature : 85 ° C (first layer 90 ° C)
  • Fan: from shift four 25%, from shift six 40%, from shift eight 60%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours) which avoids loosening by warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

Reference: DasFilament

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Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 65

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 66

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 67

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 68


 

filamentworld – PETG – Black

This filament turned out to be a little more difficult to print. The temperatures recommended by the provider 195 – 225 ° C did not bring good results for me. So I increased the temperature step by step and in the end I almost ended up with my PETG standard settings, at 235 to 240 ° C. The print result was best at 240 ° C and all bridges were also printed in the bridge test. At 230 ° C, the printer didn’t make the last bridge, see picture. In addition, the model warped at 230 ° C, and the bridge model did not stand smoothly on the table after printing. With this filament, support structures can still be removed after printing, but also a little more difficult. The only thing I liked about the filament was that there was hardly any stringing. However, this will not be my standard filament, the adhesion was not as good as with other PET filaments even at 260 ° C print with a 90 ° bed, so I often had problems and misprints here because of the first layer. Price is in the middle range.

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 195 ℃ – 225 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: n / a
  • My preferred printing temperature: 235 – 240 ° C. (first layer 260 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40-60mm / s
  • My bed temperature : 85 ° C (first layer 90 ° C)
  • Fan: from shift four 25%, from shift six 40%, from shift eight 60%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours) which avoids loosening by warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 6mm

Reference: filamentworld 

 

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 69

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 70

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 71

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 72


TPU filament – flexible like rubber, yet particularly easy to print

GEEETECH TPU shade orange

A very nice flexible filament, it looks a little bit harder rubber. The elasticity can be controlled somewhat with the degree of filling, with 100% filling (infill) it gets quite hard. It is wonderfully easy to print, just as easy as PLA, especially because the adhesion is very good! You just have to print a little slower, so far I have been using 30mm to 49mm / sec, 50 ° C bed temperature and 220 ° C for the nozzle. It already makes a little more threads (stringing) than PLA or PETG, but it is still in the frame. The color is reminiscent of a real orange or orange rear light, thinner structures also let light through. Price is average to low. Support structures are sometimes somewhat difficult to remove with this filament, so use them without support structures if possible.

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 200 ℃ – 220 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 40mm / s.
  • My preferred printing temperature: 220 ° C
  • My preferred print speed: 40mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 50 ° C
  • Fan: 10% from shift two
  • Edge: not necessary
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

Purchase: here via Amazon *

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 73

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 13

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 75


extrudr® TPU medium ANTHRACITE

Also a nice, medium-hard and flexible filament with a Shore hardness of A98. You could also say dark gray for the color anthracite. For this filament, the manufacturer recommends a printing temperature of 230 to 250 ° C in the data sheet. This surprised me a little, since TPU is usually printed at around 220 ° C. I have achieved the best results so far with 220 to 230 ° C. The adhesion is good at these temperatures. Nevertheless, there is a slight warping effect here and there, that is, the 3D object comes off a bit at the edges. For this reason I always print this TPU with a small apron (border). The adhesion is even better if you print the first layer at 240 ° C. Light stringing (i.e. threads) is already there, but is within the usual TPU framework. Ducked 3D objects can also be removed very easily from the print bed, even when they are warm. If possible, support structures should be avoided with this filament, as these are very difficult or even impossible to remove. The filament is neatly wound and is delivered well packaged. The price is in the lower to medium range.

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 230 ℃ – 250 ℃
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 20-30mm / s.
  • My preferred printing temperature: 230 ° C (first layer 240 ° C)
  • My preferred print speed: 40mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 60 ° C
  • Fan: from shift two 10%, from shift three 100%
  • Edge: I prefer to print a small edge (apron with 4-6 contours) which avoids loosening by warping
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 76

Purchase: here via Amazon *

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 77

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 78

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 79

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 80

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 81


DasFilament – TPU – White

A medium-hard filament with a Shore hardness of 94A that could also be printed without any problems. For printing I use the printing temperature of 220 ° C specified by the manufacturer. Instead of the specified 30mm / s, however, I print with 40 mm / s because I couldn’t find any differences here. The grip is very good and I haven’t noticed any warping so far. The elasticity can be controlled somewhat with the degree of filling, with 100% filling (infill) it gets quite hard. Unfortunately, this TPU also produces slight stringing (thin threads). The white color (RAL 9003) is very beautifully colored white and not transparent! The price is in the lower to medium range. With this filament, support structures are sometimes difficult or even impossible to remove, so they can be used without support structures if possible.

  • Printing temperature manufacturer information: 220 ℃ + -15%
  • Speed ​​manufacturer information: 20-30 mm / s.
  • My preferred printing temperature: 220 ° C
  • My preferred print speed: 40mm / s
  • My print bed temperature : 50 ° C
  • Fan: 10% from shift two
  • Edge: not necessary
  • My extrusion multiplier:   1
  • My extrusion width: 0.4
  • My retraction: 2mm

Reference: DasFilament

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 82

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 83

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 84

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 85

Best 3D Printer Filament Brand 86

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