FLsun Q5 Delta 3D Printer Review

Flsun Q5 is a new 3D printer in the so-called Delta design. This design is very compact, so the printer takes up very little space and even fits on a normal office or home desk. Delta 3D printers are also fast and precise. The only disadvantage is that they are usually quite expensive.

The Flsun Q5 is a real exception here,. This unit is even cheaper than many conventional 3D printers. In this FLsun Q5 Delta 3D Printer review, we’ll find out the capabilities of the unit.

FLsun Q5 Delta 3D Printer Review

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A few weeks ago, I decided to test the Delta Flsun Q5 3D Printer. I looked at the description and was a bit skeptical at first. The printer was extremely cheap (current price here ) and the delta construction with the three movable arms looks strange. Actually, I didn’t think that you could get really good, clean 3D models with it.

However, I’ve never had a Delta 3D printer and so I had to test this one.

It turns out that the test was a good decision. In practice, the device surprised me very positively. In a nutshell, in terms of print quality, the cheap Flsun Q5 easily keeps up with much more expensive 3D printers of conventional design.

Even my previous favorite printer, the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , was by no means better in terms of print quality and speed. Instead, it was about the same level .

Differences Between Delta & Conventional 3D Printers

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Example of conventional 3D printers

Before I go into more detail about the properties of the Delta 3D printer Flsun Q5, let’s look at the Delta design.

Cartesian 3D Printers

Most 3D printers available today are so-called Cartesian 3D printers. These units work with the Cartesian coordinate system known from mathematics, which moves the print head over the three axes X, Y and Z. The print head can move to the left, right, forwards, backwards and upwards.

Often, Cartesian 3D printers are built in such a way that the print head only moves in the Z and X directions. This is often easier to construct. For the Y movement, instead of the print head, the entire base plate (the print bed) moves with the model.

However, both options are the same as that is how Cartesian 3D printers work.

Delta 3D Printers

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Delta printer Flsun Q5

A delta printer, such as the Flsun Q5, is designed completely differently. Here the print head is attached to arms (a rod) with three carriages. All the carriages only move vertically up and down. The vertical axes are referred to as the A, B and C axes. Thanks to the linkage and the various vertical movements, the print head can also target every point in a cylindrical 3D space.

Since the accessible space is cylindrical, these printers usually always have a round base plate. Moreover, since the printers are controlled in the same way as conventional 3D printers, they have to convert the X, Y and Z coordinates live into the ABC coordinate system during printing.

The advantage of delta printers is that the print bed does not have to move. This has a clear advantage for time-lapse recordings, for example. Also, the printer is compact in width and depth; it is hardly larger than the actual print bed. Although it is usually higher than conventional printers, the footprint is significantly smaller. Finally, the precision does not decrease in height either. The unit prints the first layer just as precisely as the last top layer.

The only disadvantage is that there are seldom delta printers with a direct extruder, since the print head must not be that heavy. Should pressure problems occur due to a defective motor, loose toothed belt, slide or similar, then it would be difficult to determine which of the 3 axes has the problem.

Between Delta and Cartesian 3D printers, which ones are more precise? Well, you’ll get various opinions from experts on this matter. What is certain is that Delta printers are often preferred on larger scales. These printers are even used for constructing houses.

Majority of small 3D printers are the Cartesian type. However, the Flsun Q5 is one of the exceptions.

FLsun Q5 Delta 3D Printer Technical Specs

General Specifications

Technology FDM
Year 2019
Assembly Pre-assembled
Mechanical arrangement Cartesian-XY-Head
Manufacturer Artillery

3D Printing Specifications

Build volume 300 x 300 x 400 mm (11.8 x 11.8 x 15.75 inches)
Layer height 0.1 mm
Extruder type Direct drive
Nozzle type Volcano
Nozzle size 0.4 mm
Max. extruder temperature 240 °C
Max. heated bed temperature 80 °C
Frame Aluminum
Print chamber Open
Bed leveling Manual
Print bed Rapid-heating AC bed
Display Touchscreen
Connectivity SD, USB cable
Built-in camera for monitoring No
Print recovery Yes
Filament sensor Yes
Filament diameter 1.75 mm
Third-party filaments Yes
Materials PLA, ABS, flexible PLA, TPU, wood, PVA, HIPS.

Software Requirements

Recommended slicer Cura, Simplyfy3D, Slic3r
Operating systems Windows, Mac, Linux

Dimensions & Weight

Outer dimensions 550 x 405 x 640 mm
Weight 16.5 kg

Flsun Q5 Features

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After testing the Flsun Q5 for a few weeks, I can say that the 3D printer is actually suitable for beginners and professionals alike. The handling is just as easy as with conventional 3D printers and the speed and precession were just as good in the test as with expensive 3D printers of conventional design.

Installation Space

The maximum installation space of the FLsun Q5 is 200 x 200mm. This is sufficient for many makers. I also print 95% of things under 200 mm on the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , although this printer could print much larger things.

The Flsun is quite compact. Its dimensions are about 330 x 330 mm. This means you can easily place it on a desk or shelf cabinet.

Despite the low price, the printer is surprisingly well made and well equipped. It even has features that even more expensive 3D printers often do not have.

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Quiet stepper motor drivers


The main disadvantage of the Flsun Q5 is that it does not have a direct extruder, i.e. an extruder in which the filament is drawn in directly at the head. Direct extruders are preferred because they can also print soft, flexible material such as TPU.

I haven’t tested whether TPU works with the Flsun Q5, but I suspect that it doesn’t work very well. Since the filament is pushed over a long tube from the so-called Bowden extruder to the nozzle, soft material naturally expands a little when tensioned (advance/retraction), which can worsen the pressure.

However, the FLsun has some notable features. For example, it comes with a modern MKS Robin Nano V1.2 board and three quiet Trinamic TMC2208 stepper motor drivers. These drivers are the “gold standard” in 3D printers. These stepper motor drivers are not only precise, but also ensure the printer is quiet when printing.

Therefore, the Flsun Q5 would just be as quiet as the Artillery Sidewinder X1 if the fan wasn’t unfortunately a bit louder.

Print Bed

The round print bed of the Flsun Q5 is made of glass with an Ultrabase-like coating. The bed heats up naturally. In the test, with the corresponding temperatures, there was very good adhesion to both PLA and PETG. In the beginning, the adhesion was sometimes almost too good, so that you often had to use the spatula supplied to lift it.

By setting the extruder and the print bed temperature, you can influence the adhesion well. With PLA, I had no problems with nozzle temperatures of 210°C and print bed temperatures of 60°C. With PETG, extruder temperature of 240°C to 260°C, and a bed temperature of 70°C to 75°C worked well.

The printer should also be able to print flexible material, such as ABS. However, I haven’t tested this yet because I usually don’t need ABS.


Another special feature of the Flsun Q5 is the auto-calibration. The printer has an additional sensor that it uses to almost automatically determines the distance between the print bed and print head, even at 27 points. I will describe how this works in detail below.

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With other materials, such as PLA or PETG, this principle has no disadvantages. Many 3D printers work with such a Bowden extruder. The FLsun’s extruder is made of a titanium clone and can transport softer material. This design has proven itself in many 3D printers.

Filament Sensor

The Flsun Q5 does not have a filament sensor. Therefore, it cannot determine when the filament on the spool has run out and, thus, cannot stop printing. Thereforem you always have to make sure that you have enough filament on the spool. Otherwise, the model would only be half-finished.

Still, the lack of a filament sensor is a small flaw that we can live with, given how cheap the printer is.

Overview of Features

  • Relatively large print area of 200 x 200 mm
  • Heatable print bed with adhesive coating (similar to Ultrabase)
  • 32 bit motherboard MKS Robin Nano V1.2
  • Auto-leveling at 27 points
  • Printing can be resumed after a power failure
  • Titan Extruder Clone (also suitable for flexible material)
  • Pre-assembled, assembled very quickly and ready for use
  • Since the print bed does not move, ideal for time-lapse recordings
  • Stable metal construction with proven roller guides
  • While pressure is very quiet, stepper motors almost inaudible. However, the fans are a bit noisy.
  • Touch display with multilingual menu navigation
  • USB connection and memory card slot (micro SD), easily accessible from the side
  • Precision: 0.05mm
  • Layer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4mm
  • Bed temperature up to 110 ° C
  • Maximum print speed: 30 – 300mm / s (typically 60mm / sec)
  • Nozzle: 0.4mm

Scope of Delivery

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Flsun Q5 3D Printer is delivered completely pre-assembled and well packed in a small box. Almost everything is assembled. The unit was essentially only disassembled into 5 parts; the upper part, the lower part and the three vertical struts on which the motors and sledges are already mounted, I will call them axles below.

The installation is relatively easy and can even be carried out by beginners. The parts only have to be plugged together and screwed tight. Some plugs also have to be plugged in. The necessary tools, such as Allen keys, side cutters, screws and cable ties are of course included.

You should have everything assembled and ready for use in about an hour.

The scope of delivery also includes some PLA filament and short English manual.

Below are the items included in the complete scope of delivery.

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Complete scope of delivery of the 3D printer Flsun Q5

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Assembly Instructions: Step by Step

Step 1: Mount the axles on the upper part

The best way to assemble the three axes is to put the top part of the 3D printer upside down on a table. You can see three large recesses where the axes with the stepper motor are inserted.

Before completely plugging in the axis, connect the two plugs found in the back with the axes. Plug the white one directly into the stepper motor and the black one to the coupling on the axis. A mix-up and distortion is actually impossible.

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Next, insert the axis with the motor completely into the back and screw it tight with three screws. The manufacturer uses the same screws for almost all elements. Therefore, you don’t have to look long for the screws here either. At the end, tighten all screws again with one of the Allen keys.

Do the same thing with all three axes. Make sure that the axes on the connector and on the couplings are labeled with X , Y or Z. Ensure you mount the right axis at the right corner, i.e., X to X, Y to Y and stop Z to Z.

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Step 2. Screw on the Lower Part

Next, put the lower part on the table with the heated bed facing up and place the upper part with the three mounted axes on the lower part. The lower part has small slots in the three corners into which the axes are inserted. The frames should fit without having to adjust anything.

Next, screw each axis onto the lower part with two screws.

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Step 3: Connect the cable to the heating bed

The next step is to connect the cable that comes out at the bottom of the lower part with the two plugs at the top.

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Step 4: Mount the linkage on the printhead

Follow up by connecting the 6 rods to the print head. Here, all rods are practically the same. So, it doesn’t matter which rod is screwed on where. The screw is already in the rods. So, simply screw it on and tighten it.

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Step 5: Mount the linkage on the car

When all rods are mounted on the printhead, connect the other end of the rods to the 3 slides on the axes. Next, mount the print head in such a way that the component fan points to the right when you look at the display side.

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Step 6: Connect the cable to the printhead

After the printhead is mounted, connect the connecting cables from the printhead to the upper main unit. Several plugs have to be connected with the corresponding couplings. A corresponding label virtually eliminates confusion.

Note that the socket labeled “Level” remains and is not yet connected. We only need this connector when the Flsun Q5 3D printer is automatically calibrated for the first time.

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Step 7: Connect the PTFE hose to the Bowden extruder

Connect the PTFE hose, which is already attached to the printhead, to our extruder. To do this, simply push the end into the extruder from below as far as it will go. This hose later guides the filament to the nozzle.

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Step 8: Mount the Filament Roll Holder

Finally, mount the filament roll holder on the top of the Flsun Q5 3D printer. To do this, screw the two metal profiles as shown in the figure and screwed on at the top.

The construction of the filament reel holder initially seemed banal to me. However, it has proven to be ood and practical. Rolls of different manufacturers and widths can be hung in without any problems. Also, rolling up also works smoothly and cleanly.

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Filament holder

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Finally, bundle the cables with the hose on the filament head a few more times with the cable ties provided to make things a bit tidier.

That’s it! We are done with the mechanical construction and the Flsun Q5 3D printer is ready for use.

Operating the Flsun Q5 3D Printer

Before you can start printing 3D models with the printer, you have to “level” it. Leveling ensures that the printer knows where the base plate (the heating bed) begins. The slightest deviation can lead to misprints or adhesion problems. This is why leveling is important with every 3D printer.

Flsun Q5 Masters Auto Levels

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Autolevel sensor

Despite being cheap, the FLsun Q5 3D printer Flsun simplifies calibration with an auto-level function, and is also more accurate.

The machine has an additional sensor that measures the distance to the base plate at exactly 27 different points. This achieves a high level of accuracy over the entire print bed, which is often not possible even with significantly more expensive 3D printers.

Calibrating the FLsun Q5 3D Printer

Step 1. Attach the auto sensor to the printhead

The supplied auto sensor is magnetic. Plug it into the print head from below and it will stick by itself. Connect the sensor cable to the “Leveling” connector. You will see the leveling connector since it is clearly labeled.

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Step 2: Connect the power plug to the 3D printer

A standard power cord is supplied. Connect it to the 3D printer and turn on the printer on the left.

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Step 4: Start Autolevel

Click on “Autolevel” on the color touch display. In the submenu, click on the button “Autolevel” again.

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The FLsun 3D printer will then automatically scan the print bed with the sensor. A precise microswitch determines exactly where the print bed begins. The process takes a few minutes because the 3D printer scans the plate at various points, and the plate might not be completely flat.

At the points where the printer measures the distance, you can briefly see an LED flash and hear a soft beep.

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Step 4: Readjust the Zero Level

After all automatic measurements have been carried out, the central zero position has to be readjusted manually. To do this, we put a completely normal sheet of paper on the print bed.

Note: Before readjusting to the zero level, remove the autolevel sensor again. It is no longer needed and must no longer hang on the printhead.

Let’s continue.

Press the “Move Z0” button and then “Adjust Z”.

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Now you can move the print head one step down with the “-” button and move one step up with the “+” button.

Set the height of the printhead so that the sheet of paper rubs against the printhead when it is pulled out. Do not adjust it too low such that the paper becomes completely clamped. When the setting is correct, press “Save” and the calibration is now complete.

If the first layer does not adhere properly later, you can readjusting the distance again.

Print Quality

After the 3D printer has been assembled and calibrated, it’s time to print a 3D model. To start printing, insert the filament into the extruder.

If you have already bought a roll of filament, simply hang it in the upper holder. The filament should be unrolled from above. After that, click on “Tool” and then “Change” in the menu. Next, pull the filament in using the “In” button. Before the feed starts, the nozzle automatically heats up. This can take about 1 minute. During this time, you can put the end of the filament into the upper extruder.

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When it’s pulled in sufficiently, some filament should come out of the nozzle. If this is not the case, click on “In” again. This way, the filament will be drawn in a long way, which should be enough.

This is the same procedure for changing the filament, but this time with the “Out” button. When the button is pressed, you can pull the filament out.

If you don’t have a filament roll, you can use the filament supplied. The filament is not on a spool. Therefore, you have to wind it up a bit and be careful not to get it tangled when it is pulled in. This test filament is only enough for one or two models. Therefore, I recommend you buy a complete 1 kg spool, which makes handling a lot easier.

The printer can print different types of filament, including PLA, PETG, ABS and other flexible materials. I haven’t tried anything yet, but PLA and PETG are really good! To get started, I recommend PLA, as it is the easiest to print without any problems.

My favorite filament is Overture Copper PLA and Sunlu Gray PETG . For decorative models I recommend PLA and PETG for models that need to be a little more stable.

Printing from the Memory Card

To print models, you don’t have to connect the Flsun-Q5 3D printer to the PC. The printer has a micro SD slot. Simply save the files to be printed on a memory card and then insert the memory card into the printer.

Apart from a USB stick, the manufacturer also supplies a micro SD card with some 3D example models. Insert the supplied memory card into the memory card slot on the left and then press “Print” on the touch display.

All files and subdirectories are then listed in the display. Use the arrow keys to select the file “test model-flsun knurling.gcode”, for example. By the way, long file names are always abbreviated a little in the display, so don’t be surprised.

After the file has been selected, confirm the start again and then start printing.

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First the printer heats the lower heating bed and then the nozzle. The temperatures are determined by the print file itself. In the example model mentioned, it was 70° on the heating bed and 210° on the nozzle. So you should use PLA because other materials need different temperatures.

The printer takes about 2 minutes to heat up the print bed and about 1 minute to heat up the nozzle. After a total of 3 minutes, the print head should start moving and print the 3D model layer by layer.

The sample object also consists of a type of screw and nut.

Depending on the size of the model, the set layer thickness and the set speed, printing will take different amounts of time. With larger models, this can often take several hours. Of course you don’t have to stand by when printing, the printer usually does everything by itself.

However, you should check the printer from time to time. This is especially important at the beginning, when you have little experience with the settings and temperatures. There can be misprints or filament salad.

Regular checks are recommended to stop unnecessary use of the filament. If the printer is further away, wireless surveillance cameras will also be helpful. Some of the 3D printing monitoring cameras can be controlled from your smartphone.

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Perfect first print

When we started with the Flsun Q5, the first print went perfectly (see picture above). I was surprised by the good and clean print quality. I’ve read many times that Delta 3D printers deliver very good quality, but I couldn’t really believe it until I saw it myself. The print is extremely clean and quick.

To assess the print quality better, I printed out all sorts of test models, not just the famous 3D Benchy. You can see in the pictures below that all models printed perfectly. Also, overhangs and bridges but also the finest structures such as writing on the side are really successful. This was done with an only slightly modified standard profile of the Simplify 3D slider.

You can of course also use free software for the Flsun Q5 to convert the 3D models into G-Code. Cura and Repetier-Host programs are included on a USB stick. However, I prefer Simplify 3D. The program is clear and supports almost all 3D printers with finished profiles.

Still, you can use any slicer you prefer to convert the 3D models, which are often in STL format, into the G-Code format for the printer.

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Some information about the selected print settings and speeds

  • 3D model: All In One 3D Printer Test
  • Material used: Sunlu PLA
  • Slicer used: Simplify 3D
  • Extruder temperature: 200°C
  • Bed temperature: 60°C
  • Layer height: 0.2 mm
  • Infill: 30%
  • Support structure: no
  • Top layers: 3
  • Bottom layers: 3
  • Skirt contours: 2
  • Skirt distance: 4mm
  • Speed: 60mm / sec
  • Speed first layer: 50%
  • Total printing time (including heating time): 1 hour 31 minutes

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Some information about the selected print settings and speeds

  • 3D model: 3D Benchy
  • Material used: Sunlu PLA
  • Slicer used: Simplify 3D
  • Extruder temperature: 200°C
  • Bed temperature: 60°C
  • Layer height 0.2
  • Infill: 20%
  • Support structure: no
  • Top layers: 3
  • Bottom layers: 3
  • Skirt contours: 2
  • Skirt distance: 4mm
  • Speed: 60mm / sec
  • Speed first layer: 50%
  • Total printing time (including heating time): 1 hour 13 minutes

Here are a few more PLA printouts:

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Shopping cart token
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Perfect first print

Print Bed Adhesion

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After the first model prints, the heating plate should be allowed to cool down to room temperature. This makes it easier to remove the model from the heating plate.

We found the adhesion strong in the beginning. Even at room temperature, we had to use the spatula supplied with small objects to remove the models from the coated glass plate (Art Ultrabase).

Later, I printed 3D models with a low bed temperature of 60°C to 55°C, which is more than enough for the adhesion of PLA. After a few prints, however, the bed’s adhesion weakened a little. This was actually quite good in this case, as it was a bit too strong the first few prints.

It was a bit more difficult to find the right temperatures for the PETG filament. With this material, I have had good experiences with bed temperatures between 70°C and 80°C and nozzle temperatures between 240°C and 260°C.

Although not explicitly stated in the description, the FLSUN Q5 also prints very well with PETG. PETG is more break-resistant than PLA, so I prefer it for some models.

If the first layer does not adhere properly, then readjust the zero point a little. It actually makes a difference with PETG if you put your head 0.05mm further up or down. PLA is not so sensitive here, as a slightly wrong setting is also tolerated.

If you print out a small temperature tower (picture below), where the temperature is lowered by 5 degrees on practically every floor, you can quickly find out which temperature is ideal for your printer and PETG:

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If PETG does not adhere adequately, the temperature of the heating bed increases slightly and prints a so-called “skirt”, i.e. a slight outline of the 3D model. After that, it prints well.

Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not specify the maximum printing temperatures permitted at the nozzle. Allegedly, up to 110°C should be possible on the print bed. So far, I have reached a maximum of 80°C degrees for the bed and 260°C for the nozzle. I haven’t dared to do more than that, but I don’t need more as most materials use lower temperatures.

If you also want to use the Slicer Simplify 3D, you are welcome to download my printer profiles for the Flsun Q5 free of charge, you can find the downloads at the end of this test.

Here are a few more pictures to print out with PETG

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A look at the technology of the Flsun Q5

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The heating bed heats from 20 to 60 degrees in one minute and 55 seconds. The temperature is very evenly distributed over the entire bed, but it is often 3 to 4 degrees below the set value.

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Heating bed
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Heating bed from below
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Good heat distribution

The top cover can be unscrewed. This makes it easy to reach all of the electronics and motors. As already mentioned, an MKS Robin Nano V1.2 board with high-quality Trinamic TMC2208 stepper motor drivers is installed. In the middle you can see the mounted power supply.

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The slides are properly guided with rollers on the profile and are moved within the profile by toothed belts. The toothed belt can also be re-tensioned later through an elongated hole when fastening. The yellow plastic strips are only used for visual design.

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Here is a look at the user guidance via touchpad. I once took a picture of the most important touchpad menus. This can of course change with newer firmware, because of course you have the option of updating the firmware.

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After several weeks of testing the Flsun Q5, I was impressed with the compact Delta printer. The print quality matched what I’ve seen with more expensive 3D printers, like the Artillery Sidewinder X1. I even had the impression that it often prints a little bit cleaner. However, that could also be due to the settings in the slicer.

This printer works excellently with PLA and PETG, as you can see from my pictures above. The arms can move precisely.

Assembling the printer is fast, and you don’t have to spend a long time tinkering. The printer is largely pre-assembled and the dismantled parts can be easily screwed and plugged together within an hour. The automatic calibration is also great.

The printer’s workmanship is good considering its the low price. There is nothing to complain about in terms of speed. Even with PETG, I still achieved good results at 60mm/sec. In case you don’t know, PETG is often printed more slowly. I have not yet brought the printer to the limit in terms of speed, but I am quite sure that it can at least keep up with my fast Artillery Sidewinder X1.

There is also nothing to complain about in terms of stability. Due to the three rigid pillars and the upper part with the motors, power supply unit and electronics, it is stable and does not swing open. The roller guide is neatly processed and has no play. Each trolley is moved with three rollers on the special aluminum profile. The principle with the rollers and the construction of the profiles is very similar to that of the Sidewinder X1 , where I am also very satisfied.

So I really can’t complain much about the printer. It does what it should and even very well at a really low price My favorite printer is still the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , because you can print larger things than 200 x 200 mm and because of the direct extruder for TPU. Nevertheless, I now also love the Flsun Q5 .

The biggest advantage for me is that it only needs a small space and I can easily use it in the office. It is also very quiet and hardly interferes with printing. So if you are looking for a space-saving 3D printer that also offers a decent print volume of 200 x 200 mm, take a look at the Flsun Q5. I will continue to use the device and add to this article if I have further noteworthy experiences.

Download links to 3D models shown in the post


One Response

  1. Gianni February 9, 2022

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