FLsun Q5 Delta 3D Printer Review

Flsun Q5 is a new 3D printer in the so-called Delta design. This design is very compact, so the printer takes up very little space and even fits on many a desk. Delta 3D printers are also considered to be very fast and precise. The only disadvantage is that they are usually quite expensive. The Flsun Q5 is a real exception here, it is even cheaper than many conventional 3D printers. I once tested what the Flsun Q5 can do.

Flsun Q5 – initially skeptical, in the end quite enthusiastic

Having been repeatedly tested 3D printers and small entry tutorials have released me has Gearbest * A few weeks ago I asked if a new Delta 3D printer Flsun Q5 wants to test times. I took a look at the description and was a bit skeptical at first, the printer was extremely cheap  (current price here ) and the delta construction with the three movable arms looks strange. Actually, I couldn’t really imagine that you could get really good, clean 3D models with it, but I’ve never had a Delta 3D printerI was curious and said you should send it in, I’ll test it out. And that was a good decision, because in practice the device actually surprised me very positively. To anticipate it, in terms of print quality, the cheap Flsun Q5 could easily keep up with much more expensive 3D printers of conventional design, even my previous favorite printer, the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , was by no means better in terms of print quality and speed, but on about the same level .

What are the differences between a Delta 3D printer and a conventional 3D printer?

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Example of conventional 3D printers

Before I go into more detail about the properties of the Delta 3D printer Flsun Q5, I would like to briefly address the Delta design. Most of the 3D printers available today are so-called Cartesian 3D printers . They work with the Cartesian coordinate system known from mathematics, which moves the print head over the three axes X, Y and Z. The print head can move to the left, right, forwards, backwards and upwards. Often the 3D printers are built in such a way that the print head itself only moves in the Z and X directions, this is often easier to construct. For the Y movement, instead of the print head, the entire base plate (the print bed) is moved with the model. In the result, however, both are the same, it is always a Cartesian 3D printer.

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Delta printer Flsun Q5

A delta printer such as the Flsun Q5is designed completely differently. Here the print head is attached to arms (a rod) with three carriages, all three of which only move vertically up and down. The vertical axes are referred to as the A, B and C axes. Thanks to the linkage and the various vertical movements, the print head can also target every point in a cylindrical 3D space. Since the accessible space is cylindrical, these printers usually always have a round base plate. Because these printers are controlled in the same way as conventional 3D printers, the printer has to convert the X, Y and Z coordinates live into the ABC coordinate system during printing. The advantage of delta printers is that the print bed does not have to move , this has a clear advantage for time-lapse recordings, for example. Another advantage is that the printer is very compact in width and depth, it is hardly larger than the actual print bed. Although it is usually higher than conventional printers, the footprint is significantly smaller. A third advantage is that the precision does not decrease in height either, it prints the first layer just as precisely as the last top layer.
The only disadvantage is that there are seldom delta printers with a direct extruder, as the print head must not be that heavy. Should there ever be pressure problems due to a defective motor, loose toothed belt, slide or similar, then the assignment to one of the vertical axes is a little more difficult to track down.
Which printer works more precisely, the experts argue a little, you can find different opinions from experts here. What is certain is that Delta printers are often preferred on larger scales, Delta printers are even used for house building. Smaller printers are built in the conventional way, the Flsun Q5 is one of the exceptions.

Flsun Q5 – What can it do, when is it suitable?

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After testing the Flsun Q5 intensively for a few weeks, I can say that the 3D printer is actually suitable for beginners and professionals alike . The handling is just as easy as with conventional 3D printers and the speed and precession were just as good in the test as with expensive 3D printers of conventional design. The maximum installation space is 20x20cm , which is completely sufficient for many, I also print 95% of things under 20cm on the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , although this printer could print much larger things.
I found the small footprint to be particularly pleasantof the Flsun (approx. 33 x 33 cm), you can easily place it on a desk or shelf cabinet.
Despite the really low price , the printer is surprisingly well made and well equipped . Here you can even find features that even more expensive 3D printers often do not have.

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Quiet stepper motor drivers

The only pity is that the Flsun Q5 does not have a direct extruder, i.e. an extruder in which the filament is drawn in directly at the head. Direct extruders usually have the advantage that they can also be used to print soft, flexible material such as TPU. I haven’t tested whether TPU also works with the Flsun Q5, but I suspect that it doesn’t work very well. Since the filament is pushed over a long tube from the so-called Bowden extruder to the nozzle, soft material naturally expands a little when tensioned (advance / retraction), which can worsen the pressure.It is equipped, for example, with a modern MKS Robin Nano V1.2 board and three quiet stepper motor drivers of the type Trinamic TMC2208 . If that doesn’t mean anything, it should be said that this is the ” gold standard ” in the 3D printer sector. These stepper motor drivers are not only extremely precise, they also ensure that you can hardly hear the stepper motors when printing. The Flsun Q5 would therefore be just as quiet as the Artillery Sidewinder X1 if the fan wasn’t unfortunately a bit louder.
The round print bed of the Flsun Q5 is made of glass with an Ultrabase-like coating and is naturally heated. In the test, with the corresponding temperatures, there was very good adhesion to both PLA and PETG. In the beginning, the adhesion was sometimes almost too good, so that you often had to use the spatula supplied to lift it. By setting the extruder and the print bed temperature, you can influence the adhesion well. With PLA I had no problems with nozzle temperatures of 210 degrees and print bed temperatures of 60 degrees, with PETG it worked extremely well for me with an extruder of 240 to 260 degrees and a bed temperature of 70 to 75 degrees. The printer should also be able to print flexible material such as ABS, but I haven’t tested this yet because I usually don’t need ABS.
Another special feature of the Flsun Q5 is the auto-calibration . An additional sensor is supplied with which the printer almost automatically determines the distance between the print bed and print head, even at 27 points. How this works in detail I will describe a little below in the test.

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With other materials such as PLA or PETG, however, this principle has no disadvantages; a large number of printers work with such a Bowden extruder. Since a so-called titanium clone is used as an extruder, the Flsun Q5 is also able to transport softer material; this design has proven itself in many 3D printers.
We did find a small flaw with the Flsun Q5. It does not have a filament sensor, which means that it cannot determine when the filament on the spool has run out and thus cannot stop printing. So you always have to make sure that you have enough filament on the spool, otherwise the model would only be half-finished in the end and then probably ready for the bin. It’s a shame that you saved the few euros, but in practice you can live with it.

Here again the most important features of the Flsun Q5 at a glance

  • relatively large print area of ​​200 x 200 mm
  • Heatable print bed with adhesive coating (similar to Ultrabase)
  • 32 bit motherboard MKS Robin Nano V1.2
  • Auto-leveling at 27 points
  • Printing can be resumed after a power failure
  • Titan Extruder Clone (also suitable for flexible material)
  • Pre-assembled, assembled very quickly and ready for use
  • Since the print bed does not move, ideal for time-lapse recordings
  • Stable metal construction with proven roller guides
  • While pressure is very quiet, stepper motors almost inaudible, only fans could be a bit quieter
  • Touch display with multilingual menu navigation (not yet German, but English)
  • USB connection and memory card slot (micro SD), easily accessible from the side
  • Precision: 0.05mm
  • Layer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4mm
  • Bed temperature up to 110 ° C
  • Maximum print speed: 30 – 300mm / s (typically 60mm / sec)
  • Nozzle: 0.4mm


Flsun Q5 – scope of delivery and structure

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The 3D printer Flsun Q5 is delivered completely pre-assembled and well packed in a relatively small box. Almost everything is assembled, it was essentially only disassembled into 5 parts, the upper part, the lower part and the three vertical struts on which the motors and sledges are already mounted, I will call them axles below. Installation and commissioning is relatively easy and can even be carried out by laypeople within an hour. The parts only have to be plugged together and screwed tight, and some plugs have to be plugged in. The necessary tools such as Allen keys, side cutters and of course the material such as screws and cable ties are of course included. The scope of delivery also includes some PLA filament and short but sufficient assembly instructions in English. I will describe the structure to you in more detail below with a few pictures. In the following picture you can see the complete scope of delivery.

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Complete scope of delivery of the 3D printer Flsun Q5

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Build up step by step

Step 1: Mount the axles on the upper part

The best way to assemble the three axes is to put the top part of the 3D printer upside down on a table. You can see three large recesses where the axes with the stepper motor are inserted. Before completely plugging in the axis, you should first connect the two plugs that can be found in the recess with the axes. There are two plugs, the white one is plugged directly into the stepper motor and the black one is connected to the coupling on the axis. A mix-up and distortion is actually impossible.

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Then you insert the axis with the motor completely into the recess and screw it tight with three screws. Since the manufacturer uses the same screws for almost all elements, you don’t have to look long for the screws here either. At the end, all screws are tightened again with one of the Allen keys. We do exactly the same with all three axes. Make sure that the axes on the connector and on the couplings are labeled with X / Y or Z. So it is important that you always mount the right axis at the right corner, X to X, Y to Y and stop Z to Z.

Now we put the lower part on the table with the heated bed facing up and place the upper part with the three mounted axes on the lower part. The lower part has small slots in the three corners into which the axes are inserted, so the whole thing fits immediately without having to adjust anything. Each axis is then screwed onto the lower part with two screws.

Next we connect the cable that comes out at the bottom of the lower part with the two plugs at the top.

Now we connect the 6 rods to the print head. Here, too, you can’t confuse anything, all rods are practically the same, so it doesn’t matter which rod is screwed on where. The screw is already in the rods, so you really just have to screw it on and tighten it.

Step 5: Mount the linkage on the car

When all rods are mounted on the printhead, you can now connect the other end of the rods to the 3 slides on the axes. According to the instructions, you should now mount the print head in such a way that the component fan points to the right when you look at the display side. Basically, it doesn’t really matter, I read the note later and therefore accidentally mounted it the other way around, but this has no effect on later printing. Next time I would mount it so that you can see the nozzle well.

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Step 6: Connect the cable to the printhead

After the printhead is mounted, you can also connect the connecting cables from the printhead to the upper main unit. Several plugs have to be connected with the corresponding couplings, a corresponding label virtually eliminates confusion. Note that the socket labeled “Level” remains and is not yet connected. We only need this connector when the Flsun Q5 3D printer is automatically calibrated for the first time.

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Step 7: Connect the PTFE hose to the Bowden extruder

Now we have to connect the PTFE hose, which is already attached to the printhead, to our extruder. To do this, the end is simply pushed into the extruder from below as far as it will go. This hose later guides the filament to the nozzle.

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Step 8: mount the filament roll holder – DONE !

As the last step, we mount the filament roll holder on the top of the Flsun Q5 3D printer. To do this, the two metal profiles are screwed together as shown in the figure and screwed on at the top. The construction of the filament reel holder initially seemed very banal to me, but has proven to be very good and practical. Rolls of different manufacturers and widths can be hung in without any problems and rolling up also works smoothly and cleanly. So it doesn’t always have to be complicated.

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Filament holder

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Finally, we bundle the cables with the hose on the filament head a few more times with the cable ties provided so that the whole thing looks a bit tidier. That’s it, we are done with the mechanical construction and the Flsun Q5 3D printer is basically ready for use.

Put the Flsun Q5 3D printer into operation

Before you can start printing out 3D models with the printer, you have to “level” the 3D printer. You have to tell the printer where exactly the base plate (the heating bed) begins. The slightest deviation can lead to misprints or adhesion problems, which is why this first step is particularly important with every 3D printer.

Flsun Q5 masters auto levels

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Autolevel sensor

The special thing about the 3D printer Flsun is that, despite the extremely low price, it not only simplifies calibration with an auto-level function, but also increases its accuracy. An additional sensor is included, which measures the distance to the base plate at exactly 27 different points. This achieves a particularly high level of accuracy over the entire print bed, which is often not possible even with significantly more expensive 3D printers.

Here is a step-by-step explanation of how commissioning and auto level work

Step 1. Attach the auto sensor to the printhead

The supplied auto sensor is magnetic, it is simply plugged into the print head from below and sticks by itself. The cable of the sensor is simply connected to the “Leveling” connector that has already been described and labeled.

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Step 2: Connect the power plug to the 3D printer

A standard power cord is supplied. We now connect that to the 3D printer and turn on the printer on the left.

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Step 4: start autolevel

We now click on “Autolevel” on the color touch display. In this submenu we click on the button “Autolevel” again.

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Then the 3D printer Flsun Q5 automatically scans the print bed with the sensor. A precise microswitch determines exactly where the print bed begins. The whole thing takes a few minutes because the 3D printer scans the plate at various points, the plate might not be completely flat. At the points where the printer measures the distance, you can briefly see an LED flash and hear a soft beep.

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Step 4: readjust the car level

After all automatic measurements have been carried out, the central zero position has to be readjusted manually. To do this, we put a completely normal sheet of paper on the print bed.
Attention: Now the first thing we have to do is remove the autolevel sensor again, it is no longer needed and must no longer hang on the printhead.

Then we first press the “Move Z0” button and then “Adjust Z”.

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Now you can move the print head one step down with the “-” button and move one step up with the “+” button. We set the height of the printhead so that the sheet of paper rubs against the printhead when it is pulled out. So do not adjust it too low so that it is completely clamped. If the setting is correct, we press “Save” and the calibration is now complete.
If the first layer does not adhere properly later, we still have the option of readjusting the distance.

We print our first 3D model with the Flsun Q3 Delta printer

After the 3D printer has been assembled and calibrated, the best way to test the function is of course to simply print a 3D model. To do this, we must first insert the filament into the extruder. If you have already bought a roll of filament, simply hang it in the upper holder. The filament should be unrolled from above. Then you can click on “Tool” and then “Change” in the menu. We can now pull the filament in using the “In” button. Before the feed starts, the nozzle is automatically brought to temperature, this can take about 1 minute. During this time, I already put the end of the filament into the upper extruder. After the printhead has heated up,

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When it’s pulled in sufficiently, some filament should already come out of the nozzle. If this is not the case, although the feed has already stopped, you can simply click on “In” again, then the filament will be drawn in a long way, which should be enough in any case.
By the way, it works in a similar way if you want to change the filament, with the “Out” button you can pull the filament out again at any time.

If you haven’t bought a filament roll yet, you can of course also use the filament supplied. The supplied filament is unfortunately not on a spool, so you have to wind it up a bit and be careful not to get it tangled when it is pulled in. Since it is only enough for one or two models anyway, I recommend you buy a complete 1 kg spool, which makes handling a lot easier.

The printer can print different types of filament, PLA, PETG, ABS and other flexible materials should work. I haven’t tried anything yet, but PLA and PETG are really good! To get started, I recommend PLA, as it is the easiest to print without any problems.

My favorite filament is  Copper Pla * and Sulu PETG Gray * . For decorative models I recommend PLA and for models that need to be a little more stable, PETG.

Printing from the memory card

In order to print out finished models, you don’t necessarily have to connect the Flsun-Q5 3D printer to the PC, I actually never do that. The printer has a micro SD slot, so you simply save the files to be printed on a memory card and then insert the memory card into the printer. In addition to a USB stick, the manufacturer also supplies a micro SD card with some 3D example models. So we simply insert the supplied memory card into the memory card slot on the left and then press “Print” on the touch display.

All files and subdirectories are then listed in the display. We can then use the arrow keys to select the file “test model-flsun knurling.gcode”, for example. Warning, long file names are always abbreviated a little in the display, so don’t be surprised.
After the file has been selected, we have to confirm the start again and then off we go.

First the printer heats the lower heating bed and then the nozzle. The temperatures are determined by the print file itself, so you don’t have to set anything anymore. In the example model mentioned, it was 70 degrees on the heating bed and 210 degrees on the nozzle. So you should use PLA because other materials need different temperatures.

The printer takes about 2 minutes to heat up the print bed and about 1 minute to heat up the nozzle. After a total of 3 minutes, the print head should start moving and print the 3D model layer by layer. The sample object also consists of a type of screw and nut.

Depending on the size of the model, the set layer thickness and the set speed, printing can of course take different lengths of time. With larger models, this can often take several hours, so you have to take some time with 3D printing. Of course you don’t have to stand by when printing, the printer usually does everything by itself. Nevertheless, you should check the printer from time to time. Especially at the beginning, when you have little experience with the settings and temperatures, there can be misprints or filament salad. In order to be able to stop in time and not use up unnecessary filament, regular checks are recommended. If the printer is further away, wireless surveillance cameras will also be therethat you can control with your smartphone, have proven very effective.

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Perfect first print

When we started with the Flsun Q5, the first print went perfectly, see picture above. I was actually very surprised by the really good and clean print quality . I’ve read many times that Delta 3D printers deliver very good quality, but I couldn’t really believe it until I saw it myself. I hadn’t tested a Delta printer before, so far I only had 3D printers that work normally with horizontal and vertical axes, my favorite printer is the Artillery Sidewinder-X1  But now I have to say that the quality of the Flsun Q5 printouts are in no way inferior to printouts from the Artillery Sidewinder X1 or other 3D printers. The print is extremely clean and quick.

In order to be able to assess the print quality better, I printed out all sorts of test models, not just the famous 3D Benchy. You can see in the pictures below that he printed everything perfectly, also overhangs and bridges but also the finest structures such as writing on the side are really successful. And that with an only slightly modified standard profile of the Simplify 3D slider. You can of course also use free software for the Flsun Q5 to convert the 3D models into G-Code; the Cura and Repetier-Hos t programs are already included on a USB stick. However, I always prefer the Simplify 3D tool, the program is simply very clear and supports almost all 3D printers with finished profiles. How to design your own 3D models and how to prepare them with one of the mentioned slicers, I have already described in more detail in the tutorial for the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , since it works the same way here, I recommend that you read through the tutorial if you have any questions. The software simply serves to convert the 3D models, which are often in STL format, into the so-called G-Code for the printer.

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  • 3D model: All In One 3D Printer Test   Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429
  • Material used: PLA – Cover: Amazon *
  • Slicer used: Simplify 3D
  • Extruder temperature: 200 ° C
  • Bed temperature: 60 ° C
  • Layer height: 0.2 mm
  • Infill: 30%
  • Support structure: no
  • Top layers: 3
  • Bottom layers: 3
  • Skirt contours: 2
  • Skirt distance: 4mm
  • Speed: 60mm / sec
  • Speed ​​first layer: 50%
  • Total printing time (including heating time):  1 hour 31 minutes
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Some information about the selected print settings and speeds

  • 3D model: 3D Benchy – Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
  • Material used: PLA – Cover: Amazon *
  • Slicer used: Simplify 3D
  • Extruder temperature: 200 ° C
  • Bed temperature: 60 ° C
  • Layer height 0.2
  • Infill: 20%
  • Support structure: no
  • Top layers: 3
  • Bottom layers: 3
  • Skirt contours: 2
  • Skirt distance: 4mm
  • Speed: 60mm / sec
  • Speed ​​first layer: 50%
  • Total printing time (including heating time): 1 hour 13 minutes

Here are a few more PLA printouts:

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Shopping cart token
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Perfect first print

Strong adhesion on the print bed

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After the first model has been printed, the heating plate should be allowed to cool down to room temperature, which makes it easier to remove the model from the heating plate. I have to say that the adhesion with us was extremely strong in the beginning, even at room temperature you had to use the spatula supplied with small objects to remove the models from the coated glass plate (Art Ultrabase). So later I printed 3D models with a low bed temperature of 60 to 55 degrees, which is more than enough for the adhesion of PLA. After a few prints, however, the bed’s adhesion also weakens a little, which was actually quite good in this case, as it was a bit too strong the first few prints.
It was a bit more difficult to find the right temperatures for the PETG filament. Here I have had good experiences with bed temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees and nozzle temperatures between 240 and 260 degrees. Although not explicitly stated in the description, the FLSUN Q5 also prints very well with PETG. PETG has the advantage that it is more break-resistant than PLA, so I prefer this in most cases.
If the first layer does not adhere properly, then readjust the zero point a little, it actually makes a difference with PETG if you put your head 0.05mm further up or down. PLA is not so sensitive here, as a slightly wrong setting is also tolerated. If you print out a small temperature tower (picture below), where the temperature is lowered by 5 degrees on practically every floor, you can quickly find out which temperature is ideal for your printer and PETG:

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If PETG does not adhere adequately, the temperature of the heating bed increases slightly and prints a so-called “skirt”, i.e. a slight outline of the 3D model, then it works wonderfully. Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not specify which maximum printing temperatures are permitted at the nozzle, allegedly up to 110 C ° should be possible on the print bed. So far I have used a maximum of 80 degrees for the bed and 260 degrees for the nozzle, I haven’t dared to do more than that, but I don’t need more, most materials use lower temperatures.
If you also want to use the Slicer Simplify 3D, you are welcome to download my printer profiles for the Flsun Q5 free of charge, you can find the downloads at the end of this test.

Here are a few more pictures to print out with PETG

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A look at the technology of the Flsun Q5

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The heating bed is carefully processed and heated in the test from 20 to 60 degrees in one minute and 55 seconds . The measured temperature distribution is very evenly distributed over the entire bed, but it is often 3 to 4 degrees below the set value.

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Heating bed
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Heating bed from below
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Good heat distribution

The top cover can be unscrewed. This makes it very easy to reach all of the electronics and motors. As already mentioned, a board of the type MKS Robin Nano V1.2 with high-quality plugged-in stepper motor drivers of the type Trinamic TMC2208 was installed. In the middle you can see the mounted power supply.

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The slides are properly guided with rollers on the profile without play and are moved within the profile by toothed belts. The toothed belt can also be re-tensioned later through an elongated hole when fastening. The yellow plastic strips are only used for visual design. Another Youtuber (see video below) mentioned that they give him a very strong plastic smell, but that was not the case with us.

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Here is a look at the user guidance via touchpad. I once took a picture of the most important touchpad menus. This can of course change with newer firmware, because of course you have the option of updating the firmware. Operation is largely identical to that of other printers such as the Artillery Sidewinder X1 .

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My conclusion on the Flsun Q5

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After several weeks of testing the Flsun Q5, I was really impressed with the compact Delta printer. The print quality wasn’t in anything more expensive 3D printers like the Artillery Sidewinder X1after. I even had the impression that it often prints a little bit cleaner, but that could also be due to the settings in the slicer. In any case, he works excellently with PLA and PETG as you can see from my pictures above. It is impressive how the arms can move so precisely. The construction is done quickly, you don’t have to spend a long time tinkering. The printer is largely pre-assembled and the dismantled parts can be easily screwed and plugged together within an hour. The automatic calibration is also great, as hardly any other 3D printer in this price segment offers.
The workmanship is really very, very good, I would not have expected that at the low price. There is nothing to complain about in terms of speed, even with PETG I still achieved good results at 60mm / sec, otherwise PETG is often printed more slowly. I have not yet brought the printer to the limit in terms of speed, but I am quite sure that it can at least keep up with my fast Artillery Sidewinder X1.
There is also nothing to complain about in terms of stability. Due to the three rigid pillars and the upper part with the motors, power supply unit and electronics, it is stable and does not swing open. The roller guide is neatly processed and has no play, each trolley is moved with three rollers on the special aluminum profile. The principle with the rollers and the construction of the profiles is very similar to that of the Sidewinder X1 , where I am also very satisfied.
So I really can’t complain much about the printer, it does what it should and even very well at a really low price My favorite printer is still the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , because you can print larger things than 20x20cm and because of the direct extruder for TPU. Nevertheless, I now also love the Flsun Q5 . The biggest advantage for me is that it only   needs a small space and I can easily use it in the office. It is also very quiet and hardly interferes with printing. So if you are looking for a space-saving 3D printer that also offers a decent print volume of 20x20cm, you should definitely take a look at the Flsun Q5. I will continue to use the device and add to this article if I have further noteworthy experiences.

Technical data for the FLSUN Q5

Finished device: Yes (broken down into 5 parts)
Printing area: 200x200x200 mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.4mm
Heated print area: Yes, max 110 ° C
Consisting of: Alu / glass (type Ultrabase)
Layer thickness: 0.1-0.4mm
XYZ resolution 0.05mm, 0.05mm, 0.1mm
Print speed: 30-300mm / s
Our recommendation for PLA 60-80 mm / s
Our recommendation for PETG 50 mm / s
Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
Nozzle type Volcano
Direct extruder Yes Titan Clone
Supports filaments like PLA, ABS, PETG, Flexible material
Also prints flexible material like TPU Not tested yet, probably not
Tension: 110-240V
Slider software included: Yes, Repetier-Host and Cura
Printer is already supported by Simplify 3D Yes (it works particularly well with our slightly adapted profiles, download free of charge above)
LCD: Yes, color display with touch function
File transfer via USB stick No
File transfer via SD card Yes, micro SD
Connection to PC possible via USB
Weight approx 7kg
Filament end sensor No
Continued printing after power failure / end of filament Yes
Size of the device 33×33 cm height 71 cm with filament holder
Limit switch Art Microswitch
Built-in board MKS Robin Nano V1.2
Another specialty Very quiet and fast 3D printer. The compact delta design is particularly pleasant, you only need a small space despite the relatively large print volume.
Where to buy link Amazon
Source of supply Volcano replacement nozzle Volcano replacement nozzle 4mm M6 *


Download links to 3D models shown in the post

  • Download All In One 3D Printer Test  – STL file
  • Download 3D Benchy  – STL file
  • Download Customized Temperature Tower  – STL file
  • Download Glas Straw Stand  – STL file
  • Download Calibration Help 10x10x10   – STL File
  • Download whistle V29 – STL file
  • Download Spiral Vase – STL file 
  • Download Succulent Planter 11 . – STL file
  • Download shopping coin – STL file
  • Download Knurling bolt and nut – STL file
  • Download Elephant smart phone holder – STL file

One Response

  1. Gianni February 9, 2022

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