After the moderate experience ~ 1.5 years ago, I refrained from Tronxy 3D printers for the time being. However, now (New Year’s resolutions and such) is the time to give Tronxy’s X5SA Pro a try . Because: On the data sheet it looks very promising. In addition to the CoreXY construction, which is a bit underrepresented at CG, common features such as a reasonable mainboard, touchscreen and stepper driver are built in.
TRONXY X5SA Pro Review
SEE ON AMAZON
Tronxy X5SA Highlights
- Print space: 330 x 330 x 400 mm (comparison, Creality3D CR-10 V2 : 300 x 300 x 400 mm)
- 1.75mm filament for 0.4mm nozzle
- Must be completely assembled (= not pre-assembled!)
- 32bit ARM mainboard (for faster printing)
- 24V power pack or circuit
- Touchscreen, stepper driver, sophisticated cable management (?)
Interestingly, I even had the predecessor, the TRONXY X5S ~ 15 months ago , but it didn’t even make it to a test report. The component quality was too “moderate” and the heating bed could not even be heated to 50 ° C. That was of course absolutely not clear. The successor was the Tronxy X5SA. Pay close attention to the product names. Why does the TRONXY X5SA Pro end up on CG after all ?
CoreXY vs. “Prusa i3” structure
Almost every known China 3D printer is an interpretation of the Prusa i3 from the RepRap project . What they all have in common is that the print head is only moved on the X-axis (“left-right”) and Z-axis (“up and down”). The heating bed is moved backwards or forwards on the Y-axis during 3D printing. And this is exactly where the problem lies: The heating bed is moved a lot with each print layer – the Z-axis moves 0. X mm higher for each two-dimensional print layer. This mass of the print bed has to be accelerated and decelerated in hundreds of layers – this has a negative impact on the printing speed and / or the print image.
The CoreXY solves this problem with a completely different structure. Here the print head is moved on the busy X and Y axes and the heating bed moves down by the previously sliced layer height after the completion of a layer. Only the much lighter print head needs to be moved.
Then why are we all still printing with Prusa i3 models? There are various reasons for this:
- The structure is more complex. In the meantime, with most China 3D printers (with Prusa i3 structure) you only have to screw the base and the structure. Finished.
- CoreXY 3D printers take up a little more space – although most of them only look like that. (Tronxy X5SA: 580 x 645 x 660 mm)
- The interaction of the axes is a little more difficult. There is no direct, linear relationship (Cartesian).
- The long distances of the toothed belts can also make the print image poor.
- In the meantime the Bowden extruder has established itself and the print image of the i3 models has become really good.
In summary it can be said: The little hype about the CoreXY (I remember the times when the Thingiverse DIY kit was always in the TOP30 files) has flattened out a bit. Nevertheless: I want to give both Tronxy and this type another chance!
For the sake of completeness: There are of course other types, such as B. the H-Bot construction (very similar to the CoreXY) or Delta printer. I would like to briefly mention the TEVO Little Monster , which still has a place in my heart. 😉 In summary, however, it can be said: There is simply no such thing as THE construction method. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages.
TRONXY X5SA Pro: Specifications & Assessment
The installation space of 330 x 330 x 400 mm is slightly above average . The popular Creality3D CR-10 V2 and the Artillery Sidewinder X1 both “only” add 300 x 300 x 400 mm to the specification sheet. The very popular Creality3D Ender-3, on the other hand, is only 220 x 220 x 250 mm. This is neither an advantage nor a disadvantage, but must be assessed individually by each. Do I need the printing room? Do I save myself having to glue several individual parts together because I have a large pressure room, or do I just use a lot of electricity for heating?
According to the graphics, the print bed should be removable – I’m assuming that a film, as is so often the case, was fixed with appropriate clamps (see below). It won’t be magnetic foil. Nor can I imagine really good thermal insulation on the underside of the heating bed, but I like to be positively surprised.
The enclosed accessories are relatively unimportant to me, as long as they are complete or allow a reasonable assembly and the attachment of 1-27 improvements. I don’t expect professional equipment, but neither do I expect a visit to the hardware store because tools are missing.
Unfortunately, as is so often the case, there is not enough filament (see screenshot). So if you order, you should buy filament right away (see filament guide ). Other features such as B. the auto-level sensor (unfortunately also many fakes that are too bad), the filament sensor (when the filament is empty) and the power failure feature largely depend on the firmware integration.
The cable management looks better than some of the others from the outside. Ribbon cables, chain links (here for the Ender-3 ) – at 24V – that can work. The 32-bit mainboard should theoretically be fast enough for a decent GCODE throughput and thus high printing speeds.
The 3.5 inch touchscreen is now also standard – but is often taken along. The Tronxy X5SA doesn’t seem revolutionary, but it doesn’t have to be. If he does the job really well, such as B. the Creality CR-10 V2 is a well thought out upgrade, that can be enough to buy.
Long story short: I have my doubts about the Tronxy X5SA Pro, but curiosity prevailed – I ordered it from Amazon . What do you all mean?