It feels like it’s been way too long since I was allowed to unpack and try out a 3D printer. With the Ortur Obsidian, there is finally another test in the house and I am quite nervous about what the printer is good for.
scope of delivery
As always, let’s start with the scope of delivery . The Ortur Obsidian also arrives typically packed and tightly wrapped in black foam. Each part has its own compartment, everything is tightly packed and should survive the (long) journey well.
With a little skill, the printer can be unpacked and assembled in a good half an hour. The most necessary tools are included in the scope of delivery and the typical card reader and blue pliers along with a small roll of test filament are also included in the package.
This time there was no video of the assembly on my microSD card, but only two test files for the first print. Two A4 paper pages with illustrated instructions had to suffice for assembly. I cannot answer whether this is due to my early delivery (the device is just fresh on the market). But as written before, the assembly is done so quickly.
Before assembling, I disassembled the device as usual to get a glimpse of the inside of the main housing. So you can get an idea of the hardware installed.
The installed firmware (Marlin 2.1.6 and Free RTOS) really looks good! It’s optically a bit pimped up and somehow a mixture of Marlin and the well-known MKTS touchscreen firmware.
The user is then rewarded with stylish graphics about the heating process and the like.
But there is also one tiny disadvantage. Either the display frame could have been a bit larger or the firmware for touch operation could have been optimized a little. Need an example? At the very top left in the corner there is usually the back button or a menu button and it is often not too easy to hit with the patchwork, because the metal frame of the case is right next to it and above it.
But that’s complaining at a high level. The firmware makes printing a lot easier. Even during the printing process, temperature, fan, etc. can be conveniently controlled via the touchscreen. And everything is easier to understand thanks to the software and the beautiful display.
The silver button next to the display is also new. This is a small main switch that gives the printer power or disconnects it from the power. And all of this in addition to the power switch right next to the power cable. Personally, I still have the printer on a 3 or 5-way socket with its own power switch. If possible, even with an integrated fuse in the socket strip. Just in case.
At the moment, the Ortur Obsidian can be found on the Gearbest. This is certainly not the cheapest printer, but the Obsidian doesn’t want to be either! Rather, I have the feeling that the printer’s developers have finally taken notice. Many modifications that users normally make to the printer themselves after purchasing have been integrated in the factory. I like it very much!
It starts in detail with the smart touchscreen including firmware mentioned above and continues, for example, with the small white LED lamp that illuminates the heating plate and thus the object currently being printed. I had built something like this myself into the Anycubic Mega-S afterwards. With obsidian it looks like this from the factory:
In addition, the print head is a direct extruder and thus transports the filament directly into the print head. For testing purposes, TPU with the printer was also no problem at all.
I ordered a roll of green TPU from Amazon and was able to print a little ass with ears with it the first time.
By the way, I like to use the ass with ears because it is printed in size in just under 30 minutes and at the same time shows whether the printer prints well in the air (the earlobe for example) and whether it pulls strings between the ears towards the end. This was partly the case with the TPU . But that was almost certainly due to my settings, since I had never printed TPU before.
I had read somewhere that you should print really slowly and use a thick wall. That worked, but the second attempt in green above was then with 30mm speed and 1mm wall thickness and brought significantly better results. In general, I really like the way the printer handles TPU. Let’s see what other print objects I can think of.
By the way, the TPU filament I used was this one . The almost transparent filament from the second ass with ears was the PLA filament that came with the printer. The pressure was absolutely perfect from the start!
But wait … Perfect is subtly exaggerated, as I did not get the printer set correctly in the first level process because the auto level sensor was screwed too high at the factory and the printhead therefore started the test print too deep.
By the time I noticed this, however, the beautiful Ortur printing plate was already marked with PLA marks. Well – where it is planed … After I removed the first pressure or failed attempt, moved the auto level sensor a little down and auto-leveled it a second time, everything worked without any problems.
The scratches visible above are only superficial and so every further pressure still held wonderfully. However, something similar happened to me with the last Ortur printing plate . The coated glass plates from other manufacturers can withstand such unsuccessful attempts much better. But it shouldn’t be a problem to put another printing plate on it. They don’t cost the world and the scratches are (for the time being) history again.
There is also a filament sensor , which unfortunately is a bit fiddly in the way when you want to change the filament. You can grasp it from above with tweezers or the like, but especially with TPU it is usually not possible to transport the filament through the tube from left to right in the photo the first time. Perhaps you shouldn’t have printed the housing of the sensor after all in order to better comply with any tolerances?
Some printers got a bad reputation for themselves because the contacts on the heatbed came loose and simmered after several prints, because the cables are always kinked in the same place by the movement of the hotbed.
This is often prevented with small guides that are printed and retrofitted by buyers. Here, too, Ortur has already printed a guide himself and attached it to the obsidian. This means that the contacts on the heating plate are no longer stressed so much.
Many of the usual little cables here and there have been replaced by ribbon cables on the Obsidian. Regardless of whether on the Z axis or later towards the print head. All chic, black ribbon cables.
An additional belt connects the two Z-axes at the top and is intended to ensure that the prints are executed more precisely.
A little bit out of focus in this photo above, a carrying handle was also supplied, which is mounted with screws on the cross brace between the two Z-axes. This means that the (quite heavy) printer can be transported more easily.
The end stop for the Z-axis also has to be installed during assembly. This is done with two screws and plugging in the associated cable. Interestingly, only the Z-axis sensor is not a mechanical sensor.
The supplied filament reel holder is screwed on at the rear left of the device. In terms of size, the most common roles should fit on it. These 2kg things might be scarce. But not everyone uses them at home.
What should also be mentioned are the easily adjustable X and Y axes. If a belt is no longer properly lashed here, manual readjustment via screws on the respective axis is sufficient.
Many cheap 3D printers have small screws on the print bed for manual leveling. Here, too, larger screw heads including imprinting what happens in which direction were installed in the Obsidian from the factory, thus making productive work easier.
Compared to my Anycubic Mega-S , the obsidian is significantly louder. This is not due to the stepper motors, but rather to the fans used for the power supply unit and probably also the fans on the print head. Here, too, the complaint is at a high level. If the printer is not right next to a quieter printer, or if the user is not, the noise level should be okay.
Once correctly set, the printer printed absolutely problem-free and error-free. Even TPU wasn’t a problem thanks to the direct extruder. As a trial I inserted my orange PLA again and printed the small vase – it was also printed without any problems and with standard settings.
All objects also adhere to the slightly scratched print bed surface. There is nothing to complain about here.
The Ortur Obsidian 3D printer runs perfectly. In terms of price, I also like it very much, because not only a higher price was targeted here, but also nice features justify this retail price.
The autolevel sensor and the nice firmware along with the touchscreen make printing fun and I basically only have the volume and the somewhat fiddly filament sensor as negative points on the list.
For the price of less than 300 EUR, I can really recommend the printer. Of course, you can get into the subject of 3D printers cheaper with any Ender XYZ. But with these devices it won’t be long before you retrofit one or the other function and then you can basically buy the complete package directly.