The LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK is currently available from GearBest . The price refers to the printer without the accessories. If you want to know why these are really cool, check out Kristian’s video about LOTMAXX.
Ah, that’s good. Finally, besides Creality3D , Anet , Tronxy & Co., a new name in the 3D printer competition! The LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK brings some interesting improvements and features. Reason enough to hit the manufacturer and get a test copy – thank you! ;-). Buckle up, top up your data (there are a few GIFs) and off you go!
LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK Review
What’s in the Box:
- Modular kits: auto leveling, bicolor printing and laser engraving module
- Print space: 235 x 235 x 265 mm (comparison: Ender-3 : 220 x 220 x 250 mm)
- Setup time: ~ 10 minutes. Everything is included.
- Many features:
- Magnetic print bed, filament sensor, touchscreen, TMC2208 stepper, “4-fan cooling”, etc.
If you’ve been following 3DTechValley for a while, the LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK might remind you of the Dobot Mooz (back then!). The Dobot Mooz was also pushed through crowdfunding platforms and also promised buyers a 3-in-1 concept: 3D printing, laser engraving and CNC milling. The LOTMAXX 3D printer does not have a milling machine, but offers a two-color extruder.
The Dobot Mooz was “nice” back then, but couldn’t really convince in any discipline. The printing area was too small – the frame for CNC action too delicate. The “SHARK” is now much more attractive in terms of price and the structure reminds me a bit of the very successful Creality3D Ender-3 . In general, the Shark (hopefully) focused on the essentials.
That looks very promising! I’ve been testing the LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK for about three weeks now and I’m telling you about the advantages and disadvantages.
Packaging, shipping & accessories
If you look at the LOTMAXX team on the crowdfunding pages, you quickly realize: They are not amateurs. Many C-Levels have been in the “game” for over 10 years, so that the packaging and shipping should not be a major obstacle, in contrast to some other manufacturers (!). And indeed: the package arrived undamaged after 19 days and makes a good impression from the outside.
A look inside also shows that the individual parts are precisely embedded in foam. Damage should be excluded.
As is so often the case, the components are arranged on two levels in the foam. Damage should be excluded
We of course treated ourselves to the largest kit with auto level sensor, two-color extruder and laser engraver ;-). Like the accessories, these add-ons are individually well packed in smaller boxes.
I like the enclosed accessories! There are two filament rolls with 200g each, which will be enough for many test prints (also with the dual-color extruder). The tools for the assembly as well as some spare parts such as a nozzle, a temperature sensor, Bowden hose or screws are also included. Cable ties, USB cables, protective glasses, screwdrivers, etc. are included as accessories. The operating instructions are in understandable English, but are also on the noname microSD with 16 GB.
Anyone who has already set up a 3D printer and / or is not completely unskilled with their craftsmanship will not even need it. Nevertheless: I was able to work very well with the instructions later on, when adding the add-ons.
Structure & quality
What I like – calls me philistines – is the color of the aluminum profiles . The anodized gray (“space gray” – the Shark is probably also available in blue “deep purple”) is simply something different from the 0815 black. But here, too, the following applies: Once the structure has scratched the base too much and you have a scratch on it. It doesn’t bother me: It’s just a piece of equipment or a tool.
I like the processing quality! No scratched parts (test prints were already made for us, ie it was already set up) and most of it is made of metal. Here and there (filament holder, filament sensor or mainboard housing) is made of gray plastic, which doesn’t look 100% nice , but doesn’t really bother me either.
Back to the assembly: This is done in 10-15 minutes . Ultimately, you only have to put the Z-axis on the base with 4 screws, attach the screen and filament holder with two screws each. Finally the cables are plugged in. Finished.
During the construction, I decided to attach the 3D-Touch Autolevel sensor (but only activated it later in the firmware in order to test the manual leveling beforehand!). This is well protected in an extra box and is attached to the right of the printhead with two screws. Easy.
However, I find the cable management to be a bit unfortunate: It looks nice without add-ons (cables are led into the housing on the right), but the other add-ons are plugged into the front of the housing. That could have been done “nicer” without any effort.
Still, I’m more than satisfied overall. The quality is good to very good, the construction was fun – I’m looking forward to the first print
3D prints with the LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK
The assembly was done quickly, so quickly checked the power supply whether the switch is on 220V (for the European area) and turned on the 3D printer. A quiet fan goes on and the display comes to life. Since this is only placed in the holder, it can be moved freely, which is especially nice for initial gimmicks. When I pressed it for the first time, however, I immediately noticed the slow “loading” of the screen contents. Every “page” that is loaded from top to bottom takes 1-2 seconds. This is not really tragic (operation accounts for 0. x% of the printing time), but an unpleasant first impression and I haven’t seen that for a long time now.
The screen reacts very precisely to my finger inputs, the English is also easy to understand here (German and 6 other languages can also be set) – the UI (user interface) could be designed a little more lovingly here and there. So I’m hoping for a couple of upcoming software updates – there’s still time until the end of October.
Before the actual start, the manual leveling should be initiated – despite the built-in sensor. The user interface gives you 5 positions for this, which you move through step by step after manually setting the heating bed height. That works very well and so the adhesion of the first layer was perfect. So the print can start.
Of course I also tested the autolevel sensor. You can find the (very good) results in the section: Two-color printing with a dual extruder kit.
The print volume is very good. Thanks to the TMC2208 driver, I can also have the SHARK run next to me in my room during my test prints. B. just concentrate or entertain on the side. I would call the use of drivers (lower volume + slightly better print image for a few euros more production costs) as “standard” in 2020.
It gets a little louder (1-2 dB) with very quick changes of position (new layer) or many Z-hops (ie raising and lowering the print head).
I miss the toothed belt tensioner or “Belt Tensioner” a bit with the LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK. So if you want to tweak the print image and tighten the toothed belt a bit, you have to loosen the corresponding pulleys from the aluminum profiles. Personally, I find this completely acceptable and in case of doubt much better than rickety plastic solutions, such as the CR-6 SE (test report follows).
Then I have a few things to write about the print or heating bed: What I like are the large level wheels (now the standard for almost all 3D printers), the good, stable guide with 4 castors on the solid 4040 aluminum profile and the removable, magnetic, flexible printing surface . Once the 3D print is finished, you can simply remove it from the aluminum plate underneath, bend it slightly (!) And your print object will pop off. It’s super pleasant!
Unfortunately, the underside of the print bed is not thermally insulated: We “burn up” energy unnecessarily and the temperature cannot be kept constant. This is not really bad, but can be used by advanced users with a print server such as B. Octoprint can be observed. The heating bed cools down faster, the firmware has to counteract or heat and so the temperature fluctuates around the specified value (PLA for me, for example, usually ~ 50 ° C).
I like the structure of the print head! With a total of four fans , it looks a little getting used to, but it cools the object from three sides (the fourth fan cools the hotend). This means that more extreme overhangs can also be printed . There is often a “bad side” for the advanced printing junkies with 3D printers: That is the side that is not cooled by the print head – the printed object is rotated accordingly in the slicer.
The filament sensor does its job well. In a total of three tests (two of them wanted ;-)) the sensor reports to the firmware: “Hey, there is no more filament – stop printing!”. 3D printers without this sensor would continue to scan the coordinates / G-code and you would have to jump back to the exact point when the filament was empty if you wanted to continue printing. This works, but is relatively exhausting at 0.1 mm layer height.
Nörgel-Kristian could complain at this point that no optical sensor was installed ( as for example in the CR-6 test follows) and thus the frictional resistance is a bit high, the insertion of the filament is a bit more fiddly, but that is really negligible, especially considering the price.
The “Power-Cut-Recover” also works reliably, ie printing continues after e.g. B. a power failure. In the case of 3D printers without this feature, a two-digit printing time can otherwise be for the very best.
Here I have to say, to be fair: Depending on the position of the 200-250 ° C nozzle and the loss of voltage, it may be that the very hot tip is in the front, in the middle of the outer wall of your 3D print and the printed plastic is beautiful melts away ;-). This can of course happen with any 3D printer – I only want to give it to you once at this point.
The print results are really good ! The three print part fans do a very good job, so that hardly any individual layers (even with a layer height of 0.16 mm) are recognizable on the outer walls. The individual layers can only be recognized in the upper layers. Every now and then, printing was carried out in the air without support structures, so that there were mini-unsightly spots, but this was not due to the printer, but to be honest with the slicer people ;-).
The print results come, even without tweaking, in my TOP10, in which z. B. the Creality3D CR-10 V2 or the Creality CR-10S Pro V2 (both with a larger pressure chamber) are located. That really makes you want to test with the dual extruder add-on!
Two-color printing with dual extruder kit
Attaching the second extruder kit is relatively quick (~ 15 minutes) with the instructions (4 pages). To do this, the housing of the printhead has to be opened and the entire hot end has to be swept out.
Of course, the second extruder motor is also screwed onto the frame. In the firmware or the “Configuration.txt.” On the microSD card, the value EXTRUDER_NUM must be set once to 2 for the “double extruder” mode .
If you take a closer look at the screenshot, you will not only see that the PIDs can be adjusted relatively comfortably there, but also the acceleration values. I have also set the LevelMode to 1 to use the auto level .
Now it was time to get print files with two colors. Unfortunately, there is no suitable GCODE on the memory card, so I went to Thingiverse to search it myself. Since you still have to slice the code, I installed the included slicing software. This is based on Cura 4.21 and is quite up-to-date, even if I am now using Cura 4.6. Why did I install the software anyway? Because in the “normal” Cura only the LOTMAXX printer profiles for the SC-10 and SC-20 are entered. The LOTMAXX software also includes the Shark, including (hopefully) proper parameters.
So I save a little set-up effort and reduce a source of error. I can always copy the profiles over to the normal Cura later. In general, LOTMAXX only seems to have labeled the Cura, so that apart from a few other logos / lettering and the stored profiles, the rest is the same.
So fix this dual color piranha thrown into the slicer, add the GCODE to the auto leveling (it is well explained in the instructions), add a second extruder that merges two models and copies the GCODE to the microSD card.
Before each print, the hotend moves to a 3 × 3 grid (ie 9 points ;-)) and saves any unevenness, which is then compensated for during printing. As with manual leveling, automatic leveling works very well.
What should I write? Dual-color printing is usually always a bit tricky. The “retracting” when changing the filament has to be fiddly adjusted, the Primetower is too small / big … but everything worked right away – ie the stored profile is more than solid! Only the speed seems too high to me, especially with the first layer. The herringbones are very fine, very detailed. But the LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK also mastered this with flying colors. I.e. the auto leveling fits 1A – the adhesion is correct, but the filament is not pressed either. Still: I would reduce the speed of the first layer a bit. You always have the 5 minutes more ;-).
In general, the prints went without any problems. At most, I could have printed the Primetower a little thicker, especially with these bright colors, so that the last color pigments really don’t end up in the print object when the filament is changed.
Even if the UI isn’t the prettiest, the preview even shows the colors accurately.
Even difficult prints like the frog shown below work right away. That’s how it should be. There were tiny blobs on the surface that I could scrub down with a toothbrush.
Hmmm … still no fail. No buggy software, no bad component quality, quick installation of the kits and the print quality is also top – is there still the catch?
Laser engraving with the LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK
In order to attach the laser module, the autolevel sensor must be removed. This is done quickly thanks to the two screws and the 3D printer is happy about every gram that does not have to be moved or braked on the X-axis. In addition, the height or the Z-axis does not matter when engraving (apart from the one-time focus) anyway. I also find the autolevel sensors a bit too “hyped”. If the component quality is reasonable, even with manual leveling, nothing is distorted, it is done in 3-5 minutes, a few sources of error (e.g. the correct Z-offset) are eliminated and there are also many 3D touch fakes floating around.
Nevertheless, for slower prints it would be OK to just leave all add-ons permanently installed, but then not use all of them ;-). Well then: dismantle the auto-level sensor and screw on the laser module. This is also done in (maximum) 5 minutes. To do this, a small electronics box is attached and screwed on at the front. The cable then also leads, more or less nicely, to the print head. Easy.
The software looks pretty much like Windows 98, can simply engrave lettering or z. B. Engrave JPGs or PNGs in black / white or gray. The conversion into “vectors”, ie here only the outlines, is also possible. You can zoom in / out a bit and adjust the speed – that’s it. But hey: you don’t need more.
Here, too, everything works right away and the first engraving looks good – even if the “resolution” is not the best. For the gift ideas (bread board for mom, smartphone cover, etc.) it is easily enough.
Attention: According to official information, the laser works with 1.6 watts! However, this value often deviates dramatically upwards. At that time the 5mW laser pointer reached 42.76mW under laboratory conditions . Just because “you can’t see a ray” doesn’t mean there isn’t one. There is a lot of energy in the invisible infrared range in particular. At this point, we simply lack the test equipment to verify the specified 1.6 watts. Either way: 1.6 watts are death for the eyes!The retina is burned in fractions of a millisecond – even before the eye’s closing reflex begins. So before you know anything, it’s too late. Laser beams can also be (invisibly) scattered or refracted! Technology gadgets are often definitely not a gimmick, they can also be dangerous – there are some things here. U. no “second chance”! We would like to emphasize this very clearly at this point. If you are toying with this gadget, get yourself sensible glasses and a cover box in which you can operate this laser. Find out more! Operates it protected from spontaneous guests, such as B. Children!
Overall, however, I have to say (personally!): I’m not the biggest fan of laser engravers. You have to be extremely careful and can only engrave existing surfaces – nothing new can be created. So I would do without this addon, but I can understand anyone who really wants it. But maybe you will be happy with a laser engraver “only”.
Conclusion: buy LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK?
After more than 70 3D printer tests, annoying little things or only half-thought-out implementations (ey the subject of 3D printing is really not that new anymore!) Often drag me down. It just works with the LOTMAXX SC-10 SHARK . You have a lot of accessories, the instructions are self-explanatory, the conversion is quick and the results are great. I really enjoyed myself again, especially with dual-color printing!
Still, you have to keep an eye on the price: At € 240 (monochrome but auto level sensor) we are about € 80 above the Creality3D Ender-3 . But there are also a few significant improvements (the volume alone is always worth a few euros to me) and of course the convenient option of simply attaching the extensions.
The complete kit (autolevel sensor, second extruder and laser engraver) is currently available for € 330, which is € 20 below the Creality3D CR-10 V2 , which is larger, has a large community and prints slightly better. But of course this can only print in one color out-of-the-box – laser engraving kits would also have to be retrofitted.
So the comparison is a little more difficult. If you only want to print in one color, you (currently) pay a little too much, if you enjoy “tinkering” (okay, it is really easy to expand), if necessary also want to try engraving (think of your eyes!), The LOTMAXX SC-10 can really be something for them – I had a lot of fun with it, even though I am already “a bit dull”!