Longer Orange 30 3D Printer Review

It’s fascinating how quickly 3D printers are developing. Even with filament printers, an enormous drop in prices could be observed within a few years while the quality remained constant. This decay has now also reached the SLA printers. When SLA technology became known, you had to pay several thousand euros for such devices. In the meantime the devices have long since fallen below the $1000 mark – for the Longer3D Orange 30 you only pay around $400  .

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The price difference to filament printers is no longer really big, but the quality is often much better . Nevertheless, SLA printers or the Longer3D Orange 30 have strengths and weaknesses. You can find out what these are in this review.


The function of the Orange 30 or an SLA printer in general is quite simple, but at the same time amazing. Since the technique is very delicate is, which is the pressure chamber only 120 x 68 x 170mm , which is large probably the biggest disadvantage compared to devices with filament. The printer itself has external dimensions of 200 x 200 x 390mm and a weight of almost 7kg .

The device is made entirely of metal , the protective housing is made of orange acrylic glass . A 2.8 ″ touch display has been installed on the front, the power button , a USB port and the power supply are located on the rear . The included power supply has a European Schuko connection and delivers 72 watts.

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Housing made of acrylic glass

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Resin bowl with printing table

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Back with stick

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Display – here: Y-axis movement

Unlike filament printers, SLA devices only have one moving Y-axis . Unfortunately Longer3D did not specify what kind of engine the Orange 30 is. The only indication is that it “dissolves” with up to 10μm . This is the thinnest / finest resolution that the printer can achieve per shift. In actual operation, 50μm achieve the best results. The X and Z axes are not implemented by motors, but by exposure . A kind of LC display was installed on the base plate for this purpose. Instead of a normal backlight, it consists of 405nm UV diodes. This allows individual images to be shown on the display and the resin hardens in precisely this area. The process generates a lot of waste heat, which is why a fan is built into the printer . The Orange 30 is equipped with a 2K display , which corresponds to a resolution of 47.20μm per pixel in the aforementioned print area .

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Normally the bowl should of course be filled with resin and the printing table should be mounted. This is what the exposure would look like. In this case we are just seeing a layer for the support structure of the fucktopus.

The exposure takes place simultaneously over the entire surface. This has the advantage that the printer always needs the same length of time for one shift , regardless of whether only a single pixel or a large area is to be cured. According to Longer3D, the printer can manage up to 30mm per hour. Of course, this value depends on the selected layer thickness and exposure time.

Scope of delivery and structure

The printer arrived very well packed in foam. I was expecting a rather large package, as I am used to from filament printers. In comparison, the Longer3D Orange 30 is quite small. The scope of delivery is generous:

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The printer is already pre-assembled . Only the printing table is packed separately and the orange protective housing has to be assembled from 5 disks and two rubber bands. The package also includes a power supply unit , a set with all the necessary Allen keys , a pair of latex gloves , five playing cards , two fine filter funnels from 3M and an 8GB USB stick .

The only thing missing is the resin . The original Longer Resin was unfortunately sold out at the time of the test, I opted for the Rapid Resin from ELEGOO in green.

Longer Orange 30 3D Printer Review 8The setup is pretty simple, because Longer has stored video guides on the included (virus-free) USB stick for assembly and all other conceivable scenarios . The playlist can also be found on YouTube .

First you assemble the housing. The five discs are brought into position with the enclosed mounting supports and then fixed with the rubbers.Then you can switch on the Orange 30, mount the print bed and then level it . To do this, you first have to remove the resin shell. Then the four screws of the print bed are loosened and the Y-axis is moved to the zero point. With a sheet of paper as a spacer, the print bed is pressed to the floor and the screws are fastened again.

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This completes the assembly and you can start directly with the sample files or load your own files onto the USB stick. To do this, you must first install “ LongerWare ” on the PC:


Longer3D supplies its own software for its 3D printers – the ” LongerWare “. This is a slicer , such as Cura, only for SLA printers. The best known slicer for SLA printers is Chitubox . You can also use this, but then you have to reformat the file created there in LongerWare to the lsg30 format. There are also video guides on the USB stick.

I decided straight away for LongerWare, why not if you also use a Longer printer? The software is intuitive to use and guides you through the slicing process.

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First you upload an STL file to the slicer. In the first step of this can scale, rotate, or on the printing table move . Then detects the software automatically if errors in the file, such as holes in the surface. If there are any errors, LongerWare offers the possibility to repair them. The next step is setting up support structures . These are required if the object would start “in nothing”. This support is not to be confused with that of filament printers. Support is required there even with strong overhangs. The Longer3D Orange 30 has no problems with that.

Before you can start slicing, you can add a base plate in the next step . You should do that too, because the object hangs upside down and the first layer is more stressed with each additional layer. Otherwise, in the worst case, large objects will loosen during printing and fall into the resin basin. The object is then unusable and, in the worst case, the printer too, if the printing table presses the object into the LCD. After slicing , you can still select the resin used and set exposure times and rest times for it . These depend on the resin used. There are many files with empirical values ​​on the Internet.

The file is saved on a USB stick by pressing “Save Job”. Once again, care should be taken to ensure that the correct printer is selected in the software. The different Longer printers have different file formats . For example, if the file is intended for the smaller Longer 10 (.lsg instead of .lsg30 ), it will not be recognized by the Longer 30 in the first place.

The file is saved on a USB stick by pressing “Save Job”. Once again, care should be taken to ensure that the correct printer is selected in the software. The different Longer printers have different file formats . For example, if the file is intended for the smaller Longer 10 (.lsg instead of .lsg30 ), it will not be recognized by the Longer 30 in the first place.

Error in the program

In itself, the program works great and the results are wonderful. However, during use I noticed two major problems :

  1. The program requires admin rights . That is not a problem in itself, because I run the program on an admin account anyway. However, before every start I am asked whether I really trust the program. That sucks over time.

2. The program is not designed for scaling . I run it on a laptop with a 4K monitor and an external 1440p screen. In this combination, the screen of my laptop is scaled to 300%, otherwise programs are too small. But LongerWare can’t handle that. Even the “heading” is cut off and all selection fields are too small for what is in it, so that I cannot see anything. If I set the scaling of my screen to 100%, everything works wonderfully and also in an appropriate size, but then all of my other programs cannot be used. Another problem with scaling is that I don’t run the program on the external monitor across the entire screencan. As soon as I click on the corresponding button, the program shifts to the monitor of the laptop.

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Here you can see the format errors.


Once you have set up the Orange 30 and prepared the first file, you can finally start. You should definitely choose a well-ventilated place for this – you smell the resin very strongly in closed rooms and the fumes are not exactly healthy. Nevertheless, the printing should take place in a room without direct sunlight , otherwise the resin will harden immediately. In my case, the garage was used for the test. (For this reason the photos are not as beautiful as usual: /)

When working with resin, you should definitely use protective gloves that are resistant to solvents. It is also advisable to always have a roll of kitchen paper or the like ready and to cover the workplace with newspaper .

The pressure

If all safety precautions are in place, it is very easy to start printing. The resin bowl is filled approx. 2/3 with resin . Then the print is covered with UV and dust protection. Now all you have to do is plug in the stick, press “Files”, select the appropriate file and double-click. When you press “Start”, the printer starts and works for about 1 to 15 hours, depending on the settings and size.

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The Eiffel Tower has just been completed.

The settings depend on the resin used. With the Elegoo Green I was able to achieve the best results with 60 seconds burn-in and 8 to 10 seconds exposure time.

The cleaning

As soon as the print is done, the dirty part begins . Gloves and good ventilation are mandatory here at the latest . The printing table can be easily removed with a screw. The printed object is loosened with a spatula – depending on the burn-in time, this is easy or very difficult. It is not uncommon for the base plate to break, but that’s what it’s there for. First you should then clean the printed part . I initially tried turpentine substitute, but it didn’t work out well. (The Eiffel Tower and especially the Pi Tower therefore look very rough. This is expressly NOT due to the printer ).

After this experience I got isopropanol , which is also recommended by Longer3D. This gives the resin a very good solution . As soon as all resin residues have been removed, the print can be placed in the sun or in a UV bath for final curing . (Really only then – the liquid resin hardens in the sun within a few seconds and the pressure is over)

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My workplace after the third print – it’s not environmentally friendly.

Once the pressure has been supplied, you can start cleaning the printer . The printing table can be wiped with kitchen paper and then rubbed with isopropanol. The excess resin from the bowl is poured back into the bottle through a filter . The filters supplied by 3M are firstly too big and secondly too unstable. Fortunately, there are enough replacements to buy online and even templates to print yourself on Thingiverse. Almost no residues remain in the bowl or on the FEP film if you let them drip off long enough. The residues can also be removed with isopropanol. If it can somehow be avoided, the film should not be wiped off – this will cause scratches that affect the print. As soon as there are too many scratches on the film , it should be replaced . To do this, you have to loosen 24 screws with which the new film can be tensioned.

It sounds so simple, but in reality it’s a mess and takes at least 30 minutes, if not an hour .

Compared to filament 3D printers, the Longer3D Orange 30 is a printer that works very well out of the box . If it weren’t for the time-consuming cleaning, this technology would probably be perfect.

Print quality

Can such a complex technology deliver good results for so little money? The answer is YES! I was aware that SLA printers are much finer than printers that work with filament. The Orange 30 still surprised me. The accuracy is extremely good . The fine structures on the Eiffel Tower or the Pi Tower are terrific and play in a completely different league than filament prints . This makes the Orange 30 really interesting for micro model making , but also for many other applications.
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Pi-Tower, Eiffel Tower, Fucktopus and Calibration Cube

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However, it’s not just about the printer. It is also important to have a good resin , good post-processing and above all a good solvent .

The only problem I could find was air pockets in large, massive objects. It is therefore important to make sure that no bubbles float on the resin when the print is started.

Conclusion: Is the Longer Orange 3D Printer Worth Buying?

The Longer3D Orange 30 is the second SLA printer that we tested at 3D Tech Valley. The  Anycubic Photon S currently costs around € 100 more . It has a slightly smaller print space, but the same display resolution. This means that the Photon S can theoretically print slightly finer. Whether the result is correspondingly better is questionable because the difference is really small – both printers deliver first-class results. That’s why I would prefer the Longer3D Orange 30 to the Photon S, especially since it saves a lot of money.

The difference between the devices is also small in the negative points. Resin printers should only be used with good ventilation and adequate protection . If you can’t guarantee that, you should opt for a filament printer. The resin is also the biggest cost factor – at about $50 for 500ml , the material is not exactly cheap. Who place has so as to operate a printer and is also prepared to the time to clean spending, is the Longer3D Orange 30 with professional results at an introductory price rewarded .

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