he JGAurora JGMaker Magic is a cheap 3D printer in my test. For around $200 (even cheaper!) You get a full-fledged FDM printer with additional features, such as a filament runout sensor, heated print bed, filament holder, etc.
The structure is a bit more extensive, as the Magic is not delivered prefabricated to a large extent. Only the electronics are already installed in the lower housing.
Apart from that, we get the package packed in the usual Tetris manner and can start assembling the device directly either according to the paper instructions or the video instructions.
The screws are again exemplary packed in labeled bags. Apart from that, the necessary tools, a card reader and a small spatula are included in the scope of delivery. Tweezers and the usual blue pliers are missing. There is a little spare material for that. So a couple of screws and a small sensor are also included twice in the scope of delivery.
The assembly was for the most part quite simple and can be done in 30-60 minutes. The electronics are located at the bottom of the housing and so roughly speaking only the axles have to be mounted and the motors connected to the wiring harness.
This time I didn’t have to bother to unscrew the printer because there is no cover on the bottom. That is why the bottom of the photo above is also green, because any LED on the circuit board is green.
For my part, the lack of cover on the underside has a certain “gschmäckle”. If you put the printer on a screwdriver or the like, a short circuit or the like could very quickly occur.
The wiring itself is absolutely fine to my non-electrician mind. No cable was disconnected or worried in any way. The rest of the processing of the printer is also exemplary. Nothing looks shaky or cheap.
The lack of a cover on the underside leads to a certain volume due to the fan in the power supply when it is later printed. The mainboard has permanently integrated drivers on the circuit board and therefore the printer cannot be made quieter without the complete replacement of the mainboard by installing quieter drivers.
What remains in this case is the installation of quieter fans, but in the end everyone has to decide for themselves. If the printer is not in the living room or right next to or on the desk, the background noise is okay.
The scope of delivery also includes a holder for the filament rolls, which is so large that normal rolls can also be placed on it. With very small roles, the strong axis of the bracket is likely to cause a problem.
In addition, a filament runout sensor is also included, which is mounted directly on the extruder and has a strange angle for my taste. I haven’t quite risen to the question of whether the roll should deliver the filament from below or from above. 🙂
The printhead is neatly assembled and preassembled and makes a valuable first impression. I like it when the wire harness plugs into a connector on the printhead. If necessary, you can replace the entire printhead and don’t have to pull cables from the mainboard to the printhead for each element, or cobble together cables somewhere with the soldering iron.
The print bed has an extra pressure plate on the heating bed, which is held in place with the foldback clips and does not hold magnetically. The surface is slightly rough (almost reminiscent of sandpaper) and holds prints incredibly well!
Almost too good for my taste . Even when it had cooled down, various prints were very difficult to remove from the plate. But since it is only clipped, you can replace it with your personal favorite printing plate after a few prints.
I’ll show you the enclosed plate after 3-4 prints. Each time I had freshly leveled and reset and set the nozzle a little higher (i.e. more distance between nozzle and plate) and nothing helped. The rough surface is just awfully handy and keeps the prints bombproof.
That’s why I put on the cheap printing plate I trusted and * zack * everything worked without any problems. The printed numbers, for example, held on super well during printing. There was no warping and as soon as the plate had cooled down, you could literally flick the prints away with your finger.
The filament remains on the orig. I couldn’t remove the plate either cold or warm, or with a spatula or IPA. Rarely seen anything like this. 🙂
If the SD card is accidentally removed during a printout (who does that?), The printer also has a resume function. This means that printing can be continued after inserting the SD card.
The printer is controlled via the well-known display on the front with a pleasantly large rotary wheel next to it. The SD card can be found on the right side. An SD card reader and an 8GB SD card are included in the scope of delivery. The latter also contains installation videos, PDFs and test objects.
Once the printer is assembled, the usual homing test follows to see if all cables etc. are properly connected and the print head moves in the right direction and stops at the end stops. Then preheat, disable the stepper and level with a piece of paper. You can start right away.
At best, you should already have filament at home, since the scope of delivery really only contains a tiny bit of it. You definitely won’t get far with it.
As a test, I clamped a blue PLA glitter filament and was pleasantly surprised how clean the first layers were printed. You really can’t complain about that!
So let’s come to the experiences in everyday life. The printer is not exactly quiet. If you want to optimize here, you have to replace the fans, but it’s also bearable.
The print volume of 220 × 220 × 250 should definitely be enough to get started.
The Magic is only driven on one side of the z-axis. So you should make sure that everything is set correctly when assembling. Even with only one driven z-axis, the Magic printed really well in my test.
What I didn’t like was the inability to use Baby-Steps to change the z-axis while printing. So far I have been able to readjust the bed a tiny bit on almost every printer and have not had to manually fiddle with the four level screws, which is admittedly very bad and inaccurate.
I will look around for an updated Marlin firmware the days. The printer has been on the market for a few days. Something should be found there.
You can see very nicely on the ass with ears that the overhangs (the earlobe is always such a problem) was printed well. Ironing also worked very well (you can see the zero in the lower center) and the orange / gray quiz also went very well together.
With a little optimization of the settings you can get rid of the elephant feet and then everything is fine.
This vase also worked without any problems when printing. Well, not quite – for results that are also beautiful in detail, I had to reduce the speed for some objects to 50-60 mm / S. But that is often due to the objects and less to the printer itself.
For the price range, I really like the print results.
Conclusion on the JGAurora Maker Magic 3D printer
Since the 3D printers have a modular structure, there are many nooks and crannies that could be optimized and retrofitted. Conversely, this also means a significantly more expensive printer. For example, you get 2 extra driven Z-axes, optical end stops, quieter drivers, quieter fans, faster heating beds and much more. But that is not the purpose of this printer.
The JGAurora JGMaker Magic currently costs just under 200 EUR on Aliexpress and is therefore the ideal entry-level model. Wonderfully suitable for even getting started with the topic of 3D printers. If someone is not so crazy about Aliexpress, they can also order via Amazon. HThe printer can also be delivered via Prime in 2-3 days by the respective parcel service.
I can definitely recommend the printer for beginners. For example, if you first want to find out whether the topic of 3D printers will still be interesting for you in 2-3 months.
If you are already planning something bigger, you should consider whether to spend a little more money and buy a better equipped Anycubic or Tevo or Creality right away.