It’s getting complicated. In addition to the CR-10 and CR-10 V2, there is also the CR-10S Pro and now the Creality3D CR-10S Pro V2 . The most noticeable difference to the “normal CR-10” is likely: The power supply is placed in the base. What are the differences to the predecessor, the Creality3D CR-10S Pro (V1)? Well … good question. There are hardly any.
Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Review
Creality3D CR-10S Pro Highlights
- Pressure space: max. 300 x 300 x 400 mm / filament: 1.75 mm
- set up in 10-20 minutes
- Special features: two Z-axes, quiet stepper driver, filament sensor , new auto level sensor
Shipping, packaging and accessories
We ordered the 3D printer from Amazon and it was well packaged. However, that doesn’t really surprise us – Creality3D has always packaged its 3D printers very well.
In general, there are no differences to other 3D printers from Creality3D or even its predecessor. Let’s make it short: Take a look at the pictures of the Creality3D CR-10S Pro V1 – that’s exactly what you can expect ;-).
Creality3D CR-10s Pro V2: Construction & Quality
As with the predecessor, only the structure or the Z-axes need to be screwed onto the lower aluminum profiles of the base with 4 screws. Two more screws with T-nuts fix the filament holder and that’s it. Those who are not completely clumsy will be ready in 10-20 minutes (including dawdling!). As is usual with Creality3D, the pre-assembled components are properly screwed together (right angles, cable tie fixings, etc.), but a quick check never hurts.
Ultimately, everything stayed the same here. As usual with Creality3D, the assembly is done quickly (10-20 minutes) and the component quality is top. For further details I can refer you to the previous article again . I wish I could write more, but hey: Nice too. 😉
The print quality of the CR-10S Pro V2
As always, I start my tests with the enclosed GCODE files on the microSD card. At the start the usual melody greets you, the surface is in English (or Chinese) and reacts simply / precisely to pressure gestures.
The print quality is to be assessed out-of-the-box with a school grade of 1-2. However, there is no noticeable difference to the predecessor . Anything else would be surprising too. I started the direct comparison several times, with the same filament, at the same temperatures and speeds – without deviations.
The three GCODES that are included and sliced in advance look really nice, especially with cats you can even recognize the vertically arranged Chinese characters – wow!
The only difference that could theoretically (!) Be seen in the print image would be the updated firmware and mainboard version in the second version .
There is one small point of criticism that I have to get rid of at this point: At a printing height of 400 mm (the 3D printer is 650 mm high in total) , I am missing the cross braces like on the Creality CR-10 V2 . The higher the pressure, the more the print head makes the two Z axes vibrate. The printed image suffers only minimally, but it suffers. This can only be prevented by reducing the throughput speed or retrofitting two cross struts. Since the aluminum profiles are covered by the “base”, retrofitting is not as quick as, for example, B. done with the “old” CR-10. If you still want to take action, you will find a solution here with threaded rods or here with aluminum profiles. That should have been included in the version update.
No matter whether you print with brims, supports, skirts or rafts: These are always very fine, stable and easy to remove. The advantage: I could just use the old Cura profile from the CR-10S Pro V1 ;-).
Since the “resume printing” function is being advertised a lot again (for example in the event of a power failure) I have tested this several times. First of all, I have to say: The feature should be used with caution. Depending on the material, object size, etc., z. B. remove the print from the heating bed and you can not continue printing anyway. Or the nozzle stays in the middle of a wall and melts away the outer wall at 200-250 ° C ;-). Nevertheless: The resumption works very well – only with the “dog” was the first layer recognizable after the continuation.
The component fan, which is placed on the right again, continues to do a good job. In my extreme test (see below), the print was almost 9cm horizontally in the air – the layers held without support.
Unfortunately there is still no component cooling on both sides such as B. the CR-10 V2, because the auto level sensor is still placed on the left side of the print head. That is whining on a high level, but it really works better. The advanced user, who wants to eliminate even the last little things, should place / turn sensitive areas so that it can be best cooled.
Speaking of the Autolevel sensor: This is actually the only real improvement! The BL-TOUCH sensor is much more accurate than in version 1. That means the auto level at the start – which is also done before each print – is much more reliable. But: After thousands of hours of 3D printing, I find the car leveling to be “practical”, but with experience I can also level quickly and easily by hand.
Unfortunately, Creality3D failed – again – to worry about the filament guide. As with its predecessor, the filament rubs against the housing of the filament sensor because the tension is too high or the angle is wrong. That’s a shame, because you could have just taken a look at the community and would have found: There were already various solutions with the CR-10S Pro Version 1, such as: B. this guide or this . The problem already existed with the Creality CR-X etc. …
If you don’t care about a tour, you can brush filament debris from your 3D printer at regular intervals. After countless hours, something has come together for me.
Back to leveling again quickly: really make the effort and manually level your heating bed halfway straight before the automatic leveling. Otherwise the sensor can no longer compensate for it (see picture below).
I am very satisfied with the printed image. If you want to print higher than 20 cm, you should reduce the speed by 5-10 mm / s. I’m not satisfied with the improvements (actually only the firmware, mainboard versions and the level sensor): Known little things were simply not improved.
Conclusion: buy Creality3D CR-10S Pro V2?
The Creality3D CR-10S Pro V2 is a really good printer! If you don’t need a DirectDrive extruder and want this pressure space and no external power supply unit, you can strike. However, I have to get rid of criticism in marketing. I find it a bit presumptuous to sell this 3D printer as version 2 – the version differences are too small . Too many little things weren’t improved. With the Artillery Sidewinder X1 , these small adjustments are “revisions” that are continuously incorporated and make the 3D printer better. You are now at revision # 6. However, there is also confusion there as to why “ there are different SWX1 ?! “. The Creality CR-10 V2 … the 3D printer deserves a new version number!
Still: This is quibbling and shouldn’t bother us as gadget fans who know what they’re buying. Anyone who has the budget – especially if the price of the 3D printer even drops again (especially compared to other models) – will be very happy. However, if the first version is considerably cheaper now, you can take it. I assume that version 2 (analogous to revisions) will simply replace the predecessor in sales. Anyone looking for an entry-level 3D printer will still be happy with the smaller Ender-3 . If you print smaller components but want even better quality, be sure to take a look at our SLA 3D printer tests . Do you nail me to one (!) Answer: Personally, I would prefer the Creality CR-10 V2 .