Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Review

Read our Creality CR-10s Pro V2 review to find out the specs, features, print quality and price of the 3D printer.

Creality is known for producing a wide range of 3D printers, which are frequently upgraded that it can be difficult to keep up with the company. We already know of the CR-10, CR-10 V2,  and the CR-10S Pro. Now, we also have the Creality3D CR-10S Pro V2 .

The most noticeable difference between the CR-10S Pro v2 and the CR-10 is that the power supply is placed in the base.

But how is the CR-10S Pro V2 different from its predecessor, the Creality3D CR-10S Pro (V1)? Well, there are hardly any.

Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Review

Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Review 1


Creality3D CR-10S Pro Highlights

  • Print area: max. 300 x 300 x 400 mm
  • Filament: 1.75 mm
  • Set up: 10-20 minutes
  • 2 Z-axes
  • Quiet stepper driver
  • Filament sensor
  • New auto level sensor

Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Specs

Technology FDM
Print Size 300*300*400mm
Print Precision ± 0.1mm
Slice thickness 0.1-0.4 mm
Working Mode Online or TF card Offline
Nozzle Diameter Standard 0.4mm
Number of Extruder 1
File Format STL/OBJ/AMF
Extruder Temperature ≤260°C
Heatbed Temperature ≤100°C
Slicing Software Cura/Repetier-Host/Simplify3D
Machine Power 480W
Print speed ≤180mm/s, normal 30-60mm/s
Print Material PLA, ABS, TPU, wood, copper-containing materials, gradient
Power Supply Input: 100-240V 5.9A 50/60Hz

Output: DC24V 21A

Shipping, Packaging and Accessories

We ordered the 3D printer from Creality and it was well packaged. However, that doesn’t really surprise us – Creality3D has always packaged its 3D printers very well.

In general, there are no differences to other 3D printers from Creality3D or even its predecessor. Let’s make it short: Take a look at the pictures of the Creality3D CR-10S Pro V1 – that’s exactly what you can expect ;-).

Construction & Quality

As with the predecessor, only the structure or the Z-axes need to be screwed onto the lower aluminum profiles of the base with 4 screws. Two more screws with T-nuts fix the filament holder and that’s it.

Those who are not completely clumsy will be ready in 10-20 minutes (including dawdling!). As is usual with Creality3D, the pre-assembled components are properly screwed together (right angles, cable tie fixings, etc.). However, a quick check never hurts.

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The assembly is done in 10-20 minutes.

Ultimately, everything stayed the same here.

As usual with Creality3D, the assembly is done quickly (10-20 minutes) and the component quality is top. For further details I can refer you to the Creality CR-10S Pro review .

As always, I start my tests with the enclosed GCODE files on the microSD card.

At the start the usual melody greets you, the surface is in English (or Chinese) and reacts easily to pressure gestures.

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The usual start-up melody. You can also disconnect the speaker

I assessed the print qualityout-of-the-box, There is no noticeable difference to the predecessor. Anything else would be surprising too.

I started the direct comparison several times, with the same filament, at the same temperatures and speeds – without deviations.

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A classic: “The Cat” in print. According to the filename, printing should take 3.5 hours. For me: 4.5 hours.

The three GCODES that are included and sliced ​​in advance look really nice. For example, with the cats, you can even recognize the vertically arranged Chinese characters. Wow!

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Very good: The characters (arranged vertically!) Are easy to recognize.

The only difference that could theoretically be seen in the print image would be the updated firmware and mainboard version in the second version .

There is one small criticism that I have to point out. At a printing height of 400 mm (the 3D printer is 650 mm high in total), I am missing the cross braces like on the Creality CR-10 V2 .

The higher the pressure, the more the print head makes the two Z axes vibrate. The printed image suffers only minimally, but it suffers. This can only be prevented by reducing the throughput speed or retrofitting two cross struts.

Since the aluminum profiles are covered by the “base”, retrofitting is not as quick as could be done with the original CR-10. If you still want to take action, you will find a solution here with threaded rods or here with aluminum profiles. That should have been included in the version update.

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Support structures are nat. no problem either and can be easily removed.

Wether you print with brims, supports, skirts or rafts, the prints are always fine, stable and easy to remove. Moreover, you can use the old Cura profile from the CR-10S Pro V1 ;-).

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The surface is so good – you can see the low number of polygons in the model ;-).

The “resume printing” function is being advertised a lot again (for example in the event of a power failure). Therefore, I tested it several times.

To begin, the feature should be used with caution. Depending on the material, object size, etc., if you remove the print from the heating bed, you can not continue printing anyway. Also, if the nozzle stays in the middle of a wall and melts away the outer wall at 200-250 ° C ;-), you won’t be able to continue printing.

Nevertheless, the resumption works  well. It is only with the dog model that the first layer recognizable after the continuation.

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Oopsi! With the “resume printing” feature you can recognize the new layer.

The component fan, which is placed on the right, does a good job. In my extreme test (see below), the print was almost 9cm horizontally in the air. The layers held without support.

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Crass bridging – no problem.

Unfortunately, there is still no component cooling on both sides like is the case with the CR-10 V2. This is because the auto level sensor is still placed on the left side of the print head. That is whining on a high level, but it really works better.

For an advanced user who wants to eliminate even the last little things, you can place/turn sensitive areas so that it can be best cooled.

The autolevel sensor is the only real improvement! The BL-TOUCH sensor is much more accurate than in version 1. That means that the auto leveling at the start, as well as when done before each print, is much more reliable.

However, after thousands of hours of 3D printing, I find the card leveling to be more practical. But with experience, I can also level quickly and easily by hand.

Unfortunately, there is an issue with the filament guide. As with its predecessor, the filament rubs against the housing of the filament sensor because the tension is too high or the angle is wrong. That’s a shame, because user had already found various solutions with the CR-10S Pro Version 1, such as this guide or this .

The problem also existed with the Creality CR-X and other Creality 3D printers.

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Filament abrasion everywhere, since sensible guidance is (still) missing.

If you don’t care about a tour, you can brush filament debris from your 3D printer at regular intervals. After countless hours, we were able to print something.

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Oreo biscuits in print: As gifts / packaging for relatives.

Back to leveling, it’s important to manually level your heating bed halfway straight before the automatic leveling. Otherwise the sensor will not be able to compensate for it (see picture below).

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Whoopsie: one out of four “cookies” turned out to be nothing.

I was very satisfied with the printed image. If you want to print higher than 20 cm, you should reduce the speed by 5-10 mm/s.

I was not satisfied with the improvements done. Actually, only the firmware, mainboard versions and the level sensor were improved. Known little things were simply not improved.

Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Price

The Creality3D CR-10S Pro V2 is a really good printer! If you don’t need a DirectDrive extruder and want this pressure space and no external power supply unit, you can buy the 3D printer. However, I think it’s pretentious to sell this 3D printer as version 2  because the differences are too small with the version 1. Too many little things weren’t improved.

Compare that with the Artillery Sidewinder X1, these small adjustments are “revisions” that are continuously incorporated to make the 3D printer better.

Still, the small improvements  shouldn’t bother you if you know what you’re buying. Anyone looking for a budget 3D printer will be very happy. However, if the first version is considerably cheaper now, you can take it. I assume that version 2 (analogous to revisions) will simply replace the predecessor in sales.

Anyone looking for an entry-level 3D printer will still be happy with the smaller Ender-3. If you print smaller components but want even better quality, check our guide to the best resin 3D printers .

To end this review, yes, personally, I would get the Creality CR-10 V2 rather than the CR-10 V2 Pro.


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