Best Resin 3D Printers for Miniatures (2026): Top Picks for Beginners, Detail & Speed

If you’ve ever tried printing a Warhammer Space Marine or a D&D ranger on an FDM printer and watched in disappointment as the layer lines completely destroyed all the fine detail on the face and armor — you already know why you’re here. Resin printing isn’t just a step up from FDM for miniatures. It’s a completely different universe.

And in 2026, that universe has gotten dramatically more accessible, more detailed, and honestly, a lot more fun to work with.

Here’s the thing: the best resin 3D printers for miniatures have crossed a threshold this year that makes older machines feel genuinely obsolete. We’re talking 14K–16K screens that deliver XY resolutions between 14 and 19 microns — details so sharp that once you prime and paint the models, you genuinely cannot tell them from commercially cast resin pieces. On top of that, heated vats and auto-leveling have become standard features rather than luxury extras, which means fewer failed prints and less 3 a.m. frustration.

Whether you’re a beginner who wants to start printing your own D&D minis without pulling your hair out, a hobbyist scaling up to print Warhammer armies in bulk, or a detail obsessive chasing the sharpest bust you’ve ever painted — this guide will walk you through exactly which machine is right for you and why.

Quick Picks: Best Resin 3D Printers for Miniatures (2026)

For those of you who want the short version before diving deep:

Quick Comparison Table

🥇 ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra 16K — Best Overall Resin 3D Printer for Miniatures

Who it’s for: Hobbyists and semi-serious miniature printers who want top-tier detail and the ability to print in volume — without babysitting every print.

If you asked me to recommend a single machine to someone who’s serious about miniatures in 2026, the Saturn 4 Ultra would be my answer without hesitation. It hits every meaningful benchmark: exceptional resolution, modern workflow features, and a build volume that makes printing armies an actual option rather than a seven-night slog. You can read our full Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra Review for a deep dive.

The Detail Story

The Saturn 4 Ultra’s 16K mono LCD panel delivers an XY resolution of approximately 14 × 19 microns across its build plate. To put that in perspective: a human hair is roughly 70 microns wide. At 14–19 microns, you are capturing detail that a paintbrush can barely articulate — fine chainmail links, the micro-texture of fur on a beast model, individual rivets on Space Marine armor, the gentle curl of a wizard’s robe. This is the kind of resolution that makes you hold a freshly printed mini up to a lamp and just stare.

Anti-aliasing is also excellent here, which matters more than most people realize. Curved surfaces — capes sweeping behind a character, the dome of a helmet, the muscle definition on a daemon — have sub-pixel blending that eliminates the “stepped” edge effect that even good MSLA printers used to struggle with.

The 2026 Feature That Changes Everything: Heated Vat

This is genuinely one of the most important features to look for in any 2026 resin printer, and the Saturn 4 Ultra includes it. The heated vat maintains the resin at an optimal working temperature (typically around 30–35°C), which reduces viscosity and allows the resin to flow into extremely fine features during exposure. In practical terms? Better detail fidelity in thin areas, fewer failed supports, and significantly better performance in cooler environments (a real problem for anyone printing in a garage or unheated space in winter).

Tilt-Release Technology

The Saturn 4 Ultra uses a tilt-release mechanism rather than a traditional straight-lift (FEP peel) approach. When each layer cures, the build plate doesn’t just yank straight up — it tilts to gradually separate the cured resin from the FEP film. This dramatically reduces suction forces, which means you can run finer, more delicate support structures without them snapping during the peel cycle. For miniature printers, this is huge. Thin swords, spears, extended fingers, bat wings — these all benefit enormously from reduced peel forces.

Build Volume and Batch Printing

The Saturn 4 Ultra’s build plate is large enough to comfortably print full squads of 28mm miniatures in a single run. We’re talking 8–12 infantry models at once depending on orientation and support placement. If you’re building a 2,000-point Warhammer army or stocking a D&D campaign with custom NPCs, this is not a machine that makes you wait weeks to have a usable collection.

A Word on Speed (Important Expectation-Setting)

The specs will tell you 150 mm/h. That’s real — but it applies to high-speed resin formulations. If you’re printing at maximum detail using standard or water-washable miniature resin, your realistic print speed is more like 30–50 mm/h. That’s not a knock on the machine — it’s just how high-detail printing works. Faster exposure times mean slightly less accurate curing for complex geometry. For Warhammer-scale models where detail is the whole point, slower is better. For batch production where you need quantity, you can push the speed settings with appropriate resin.

Real-World Performance

• Warhammer 40K models: Outstanding. Crisp helmet details, readable chapter insignia, clean loincloth and parchment textures.
• D&D adventurers: Excellent facial detail, expressive poses, fine hair and clothing folds come through cleanly.
• Army-scale batch printing: One of the best machines for this use case at this price point.

🎯 Phrozen Sonic Mighty Revo 16K — Best Resin 3D Printer for Ultra-Detail Miniatures and Figures

Who it’s for: Painters, collectors, display-mini enthusiasts, and anyone who needs the sharpest possible output above all else.

Phrozen has always occupied a specific niche in the resin printing world: machines that prioritize pixel density and image sharpness above everything else. The Sonic Mighty Revo 16K series continues that tradition — and in 2026, it’s evolved in ways that make it genuinely competitive with the Saturn-class machines rather than just a “best for small minis” footnote. See our detailed Phrozen Sonic Mighty Revo 16K Review.

The Detail Advantage

The Sonic Revo 14K and 16K variants deliver XY resolutions in the 14–16 micron range. Smaller build plates are part of the equation here — and that’s actually a feature, not a limitation. When you’re packing the same pixel count into a smaller surface area, each pixel represents a smaller physical area on your print. The result is the kind of sharpness that makes miniature painters genuinely excited before they even pick up a brush.

We’re talking about detail that reproduces the sculptor’s original digital work with almost no loss in translation. Fine scroll text on a banner, individual eyelashes on a display bust, the texture of aged leather on a saddlebag — the Revo renders all of this with a clarity that larger build-plate machines at similar price points simply can’t match.

2026 Updates: Not Just a Pretty Screen

Earlier Phrozen machines like the Mini 8K were legitimately excellent but started to show their age in a few areas. The Revo series addresses this with a heated vat (yes, it’s here too), a modernized UI experience, and improved reliability profiles that make calibration less of an ongoing chore.

The updated slicer ecosystem (Chitubox and Lychee Slicer both work beautifully with Phrozen machines) also makes support placement and hollowing for display-quality busts much more intuitive than it used to be.

It is not the machine you want if you’re primarily batch-printing 28mm infantry. The build plate is smaller by design — that’s the trade-off for pixel density. For armies, the Saturn 4 Ultra is more practical. But for the piece you’re going to spend 30 hours painting and put on a shelf forever? Nothing beats Phrozen Revo’s output at this price.

Resin Compatibility

Because the Revo machines are built for precision above speed, they pair beautifully with high-detail resins: Phrozen’s own Aqua series, Siraya Tech Tenacious (blended for flexibility on thin parts), and ABS-like resins that give the fine features structural durability once removed from the plate. Water-washable resins work fine for everyday printing; standard resins with IPA washing give marginally sharper results on extremely fine details.

⚡ ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M7 Pro — Best Resin 3D Printer for Speed and High-Volume Workflow

Who it’s for: Etsy sellers, commission printers, army builders, anyone who needs reliable high-volume output without completely sacrificing print quality.

Not everyone printing resin minis is trying to produce gallery-quality busts. Some of you are running a small Etsy shop selling painted adventurers. Some are building a 3,000-point Age of Sigmar army. Some are a dungeon master who needs 40 goblin archers by Saturday. The ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M7 Pro is the machine built for those people. Check out our full Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Review.

Speed Is the Feature

170 mm/h print speed. That’s the headline, and it’s real — provided you’re using a compatible high-speed resin (ANYCUBIC’s Rapid series is the obvious pairing, but several third-party options work well too). In practice, a full build plate of 28mm infantry can be completed in a fraction of the time the same job would take on a precision-focused machine running standard settings.

Over weeks of printing an army, that adds up to a significant difference in how quickly you can get your models primed and on the table.

Build Volume

The M7 Pro offers a generous build volume that comfortably accommodates full squads, vehicle components, or layered scenery pieces. This pairs well with the speed advantage: you’re not just printing fast, you’re printing a lot at once.

Resolution: Good, Not Absolute Best

Here’s where I’ll give you an honest trade-off assessment. The M7 Pro’s XY resolution sits at approximately 16.8 × 24.8 microns — still excellent, still well under the 25-micron threshold where detail becomes clearly visible to the naked eye. But compared to the Saturn 4 Ultra’s ~14 × 19 µm or the Phrozen Revo’s tighter pixel density, there is a measurable, if subtle, difference on extremely fine features at very close inspection.

For 99% of miniature applications — infantry, cavalry, standard character models — this is not something you’ll notice once the models are primed and painted. For display-quality busts or competition minis where you’re inspecting under magnification? You’ll feel the difference.

The Workflow Advantage

Beyond raw speed, the M7 Pro is designed for reliability at volume. The screen is built to handle higher print counts before degradation, the FEP system is easy to replace and maintain, and the machine holds calibration well over extended print sessions. If you’re printing 8+ hours a day, that durability matters enormously.

🟢 ELEGOO Mars 5 Ultra — Best Resin 3D Printer for Beginners

Who it’s for: First-time resin printer owners, hobbyists transitioning from FDM, and anyone who wants excellent miniature quality without a steep learning curve.

Let’s be real about something: resin printing has a reputation, and some of it is deserved. Resin is messy. It requires ventilation. Supports need care. Calibration matters. For years, beginners were told to “just accept the learning curve” — and many gave up before getting good results.

The ELEGOO Mars 5 Ultra is the machine that changes that conversation. It’s the best resin 3D printer for miniatures for beginners not because it dumb things down, but because it solves the problems that actually stopped beginners from succeeding. Read our comprehensive Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra Review.

Auto-Leveling: The Beginner Game-Changer

The single most common cause of failed first prints on a resin printer is incorrect bed leveling. If the build plate isn’t perfectly parallel to the FEP film at the correct Z-offset, your first layer won’t adhere and the whole print fails. On older machines, this involved manual paper-test calibration that was fiddly, anxiety-inducing, and easy to get wrong.

The Mars 5 Ultra has auto-leveling. You run it once when you set up the machine, and it figures out the correct Z-offset automatically. This alone eliminates the most stressful part of the setup process and means your first print has a genuinely high chance of success right out of the box.

Resolution: Excellent for the Category

~18 micron XY resolution. To be clear: this is not a “budget resolution.” At 18 microns, you are firmly in the territory where miniature detail is exceptional. The difference between 14 microns and 18 microns is only perceptible under magnification and only matters for the most extreme close-up applications. For D&D minis, Warhammer infantry, dungeon terrain, and character models, 18 microns is more than sufficient to produce results that will impress everyone at your table.

Speed at 150 mm/h

The Mars 5 Ultra matches the Saturn 4 Ultra’s headline speed of 150 mm/h, which is impressive for a machine at this price point. As always, realistic high-detail print speeds are more conservative — but having the capability available when you want to experiment with high-speed resins is a genuine plus.

Plug-and-Play Experience

ELEGOO has invested in making the out-of-box setup as painless as possible. The touch interface is clean and intuitive. The slicing presets for ELEGOO’s own resins are dialed in and reliable. The build plate surface promotes first-layer adhesion effectively. For someone transitioning from FDM printing (where a lot of these workflow considerations are handled differently), the Mars 5 Ultra feels approachable without feeling like it’s holding your hand.

What Beginners Actually Print

This machine shines for:

• D&D character minis — your half-orc barbarian, your halfling rogue, your wizard with the ridiculous hat
• Monster encounters — goblins, skeletons, wolves, giant spiders — the bread and butter of dungeon crawling
• Starter Warhammer projects — learning resin printing on a Kill Team or Combat Patrol scale before scaling up
• Fantasy terrain — dungeon tiles, scatter terrain, doorways, chests, barrels

What to Keep in Mind

The Mars 5 Ultra has a smaller build volume than the Saturn 4 Ultra — it’s a Mars-class machine, designed for precision per-model rather than large batch production. For printing a full Warhammer army at scale, you’ll eventually want to upgrade. But as a machine to learn on, develop skills with, and produce genuinely excellent miniatures? It’s nearly perfect.

💰 ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 — Best Budget Resin Printer for Miniatures

Who it’s for: Budget-conscious hobbyists who refuse to compromise on print quality and want to discover whether resin printing is for them without a major investment.

Budget 3D printers used to mean “budget results.” That’s no longer true, and the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 is one of the clearest examples of why. Check out our Anycubic Photon Mono 4 Review for more details.

The Resolution Surprise

Here’s the spec that makes the Mono 4 genuinely remarkable for its price: ~17 micron XY resolution. Let that sink in for a moment. This budget machine prints at a resolution very close to machines that cost two to three times as much. The reason comes down to physics: the Mono 4 has a smaller build plate, and when you pack a high-resolution screen into a smaller surface area, each pixel gets smaller — and your prints get sharper.

For miniature printing, this is excellent news. 17 microns is competitive with mid-range and even some premium machines for per-print detail quality. The fine detail on a 28mm model printed on the Mono 4 will genuinely impress you.

The Trade-Offs (Because There Are Some)

Being honest with you here, because that’s what you actually need to make a good decision:

• Speed: ~70 mm/h. This is the most significant gap versus the faster machines. Print times are noticeably longer per job. If you’re printing one or two models at a time, this is manageable. If you’re batch-printing armies, you’ll feel it.
• Build volume: Smaller than the Saturn-class or M7 Pro. You’re printing fewer models per plate, which compounds with the slower speed.
• Automation features: No heated vat, more basic auto-leveling (or manual leveling depending on firmware version). The workflow is more hands-on.

But Here’s the Thing

The Mono 4’s output quality-per-dollar is genuinely outstanding. If you’re new to resin printing and not ready to commit to a $400–$700 machine, this is the way to test the waters properly. You will print models that make people ask which company cast them. You will discover whether you love resin printing without spending a month’s hobby budget to find out.

And if you love it — which you probably will — you’ll have a clear understanding of what you want in your next machine.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose the Best Resin 3D Printer for Miniatures in 2026

Now that you’ve seen the individual machines, let’s zoom out. Whether you’re cross-referencing these picks or still deciding, understanding these fundamentals will help you make a decision you’ll be happy with for years.

1. Resolution vs. Marketing: The “K” Number Explained

This is the most important thing to understand, and it’s one the marketing materials actively obscure.

When a printer is advertised as “16K,” that number refers to the horizontal pixel count of the LCD screen — roughly analogous to how 4K refers to a TV resolution. It tells you something about the screen quality, but it doesn’t directly tell you how detailed your print will be.

XY resolution = the size of each pixel as it falls on your actual print surface. This depends on both the screen pixel count and the screen size. A 16K screen on a large build plate might have the same or worse XY resolution than a 14K screen on a smaller plate — because the larger plate spreads those pixels over more area.

The practical guide:

• Under 25 µm → Excellent miniature detail; visible improvement over FDM is dramatic
• 18–25 µm → Great quality; ideal for D&D minis, standard Warhammer infantry, tabletop gaming use
• 14–18 µm → Elite detail; competition-quality busts, display minis, demanding collectors
• Under 14 µm → Specialist territory; not many consumer machines here yet

All five machines in this guide fall between 14 and 18 microns — which is why we chose them. Don’t let a lower “K” number fool you into thinking a machine is inferior if its XY micron figure is excellent.

Anti-Aliasing is the companion feature worth understanding here. Most modern printers apply sub-pixel anti-aliasing during exposure, which smooths the transition between lit and unlit pixels. This is what gives curved surfaces — capes, rounded helmets, organic musculature — that smooth, organic quality rather than a visibly “stepped” surface. All the machines in this guide have good anti-aliasing support, but it’s worth checking slicer compatibility when shopping.

2. Heated Vat: No Longer Optional in 2026

If there’s one feature that separates 2026-era machines from their predecessors, it’s the heated vat. And it’s worth understanding why it matters so much rather than just noting that it exists.

The physics: Resin is a photopolymer liquid that cures when exposed to UV light. Like most liquids, its viscosity (thickness/flowability) is highly temperature-dependent. Cold resin is thicker and flows more slowly. This affects miniature printing in several ways:

• Detail fidelity: Cold, thick resin doesn’t flow into extremely fine features as readily. The tip of a sword, the fingers on a hand, micro-details on armor trim — these are where cold resin fails first.
• Layer adhesion: Each layer needs resin to fill the gap between the previous layer and the FEP film uniformly. Cold resin does this less consistently.
• Support reliability: Cold resin is more viscous during the peel cycle, which increases the force required to separate each layer from the FEP. This stresses supports — and thin supports on delicate miniatures are the first things to snap.
• Environmental consistency: If you’re printing in a garage, basement, or any uncontrolled temperature environment, cold seasons used to mean nightmare print success rates. Heated vat essentially eliminates this variable.

The Saturn 4 Ultra and Phrozen Sonic Revo both include heated vats. This is a meaningful reason why both are ranked above machines without the feature at comparable price points.

3. Speed vs. Detail: Setting Realistic Expectations

The speed figures in printer specifications are real — but they deserve context.

High print speeds (150–170 mm/h) are achieved with specialized high-speed resins that are formulated to cure extremely quickly. These resins are excellent for rapid production, but they have trade-offs: they’re typically less translucent, may have slightly softer fine details at the micro level, and sometimes sacrifice some mechanical properties compared to standard resins.

For miniature printing, here’s the practical breakdown:

None of this is a failing of any machine on this list — it’s the nature of photopolymer printing. A print that takes 4 hours at slow settings will look significantly better than the same model printed in 90 minutes. Whether that trade-off is worth it depends entirely on what you’re making.

The M7 Pro is optimized for the fast end of that spectrum. The Phrozen Revo rewards patience at the slow end. The Saturn 4 Ultra does both well.

4. Build Volume: Small Printer vs. Large Printer Strategy

This choice comes down to one question: Are you printing display models or armies?

Small build plate (Mars-class, Mono 4, Phrozen Revo):

• Better pixel density → sharper prints
• Perfect for display-quality single models and small groups
• Easier to manage resin, FEP film, and support removal
• Less expensive to run (smaller resin volumes)

Large build plate (Saturn-class, M7 Pro):

• Can print full squads, monster groups, terrain sections in one go
• Slightly lower pixel density for the same or similar screen resolution
• More demanding on resin volume and post-processing capacity
• Better cost efficiency per model for high-volume printing

Serious hobbyists often end up owning one of each: a larger machine for batch work and a smaller, high-resolution machine for the centerpieces. But if you’re starting with one, define your primary use case first.

5. Ease of Use: What Beginners Actually Need

If you’re new to resin printing, here’s the honest checklist of features that will make your life meaningfully easier:

Auto-leveling is the single biggest factor. As explained in the Mars 5 Ultra review, an incorrectly leveled build plate is the #1 cause of beginner print failures. Any machine with reliable auto-leveling dramatically reduces this risk.

Slicer ecosystem matters more than most beginners expect. ELEGOO and ANYCUBIC machines both have strong compatibility with Chitubox and Lychee Slicer — the two dominant miniature slicers with the most pre-tuned profiles and active community support. Phrozen has solid Chitubox support. This means when something goes wrong, you can find help quickly.

Community support and documentation. ELEGOO in particular has an exceptional community, extensive YouTube support content, and active subreddits. When you’re troubleshooting at midnight because your supports kept failing, having a community is invaluable.

FEP/nFEP replacement ease. The FEP film (the clear film at the bottom of the vat) will need replacing over time. Machines where this is quick and straightforward save significant frustration over the lifetime of ownership.

Resin vs. FDM for Miniatures: The Verdict

This comes up constantly, so here’s the quick, practical breakdown:

For miniatures specifically — 28mm gaming pieces, display busts, figure models — resin is unequivocally the right tool. The detail gap is not subtle; it’s the difference between something that looks like a professional model and something that looks like a prototype.

Best Resin Settings for Miniatures: A Practical Starting Point

Getting the printer right is half the equation. Getting your settings right is the other half. Here’s a practical baseline to start from:

Layer Height

• 0.05mm (50 microns) → Good starting point for most miniatures; balances detail and print time
• 0.03mm (30 microns) → Maximum detail; noticeably better on fine features; longer print times
• 0.02mm (20 microns) → Elite detail; very long print times; for display-quality work only

Exposure Settings

• Follow manufacturer recommendations as a baseline, then adjust by resin type
• Overexposure is the most common beginner mistake — it bleeds light into adjacent areas and softens fine details
• Test prints (AmeraLabs Town, Phrozen calibration print) are your friend before committing to a full model

Support Strategy for Miniatures

• Use light supports — 0.3–0.4mm contact points for most miniature surfaces
• Avoid heavy supports directly on fine details (face, hands) wherever possible
• Orient models to minimize islands and overhangs; a 30–45° tilt usually helps with most humanoid figures
• Lychee Slicer’s auto-support feature is excellent for miniatures; Chitubox’s is functional but often needs manual refinement

Temperature

• If your printer doesn’t have a heated vat, print in a warm room (20°C+) or warm the resin bottle slightly before pouring
• Cold resin is the silent killer of fine miniature details

Post-Processing Miniatures: The Workflow That Finishes the Job

A great print plus bad post-processing equals a mediocre result. Here’s how to finish the job properly:

Washing

• IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) 90%+ — the classic approach; works with almost all standard resins
• Water-washable resin — can be washed with plain water; ideal for beginners concerned about chemical handling
• Wash time: 3–5 minutes in fresh IPA is usually sufficient; over-washing can slightly affect surface finish
• Use a wash station with a magnetic spinner for consistency (ELEGOO Mercury Plus and similar units are excellent)

Curing

• UV curing stations cure prints more evenly than sunlight and in a fraction of the time
• Standard cure time: 2–4 minutes for most miniature-scale models
• Under-curing leaves the resin slightly tacky and reduces mechanical strength; over-curing makes the resin brittle
• Rotate the model during curing for even UV exposure on all surfaces

Sanding and Finishing

• Start with 400–600 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper for any visible support nubs or surface artifacts
• 1000–1500 grit for final surface finishing before priming
• Resin sands beautifully compared to FDM plastic — it cuts cleanly and takes minimal effort to get a smooth result
• Grey primer (spray can, airbrush-applied Vallejo grey, or rattle-can Games Workshop Chaos Black) reveals any remaining surface issues before painting

Final Verdict: Which Resin 3D Printer for Miniatures Is Right for You?

Here’s the honest summary:

Frequently Asked Questions

Common Mistakes to Avoid & Safety Note

Even with the best machine in the world, there are a handful of beginner mistakes that will consistently ruin prints. Here are the most common ones — and how to avoid them.

Common Mistakes

• Skipping the FEP check: The FEP film at the bottom of your resin vat takes a beating over time. Scratches, cloudiness, and micro-punctures all affect print quality. Check your FEP before every significant print session. Replace it when it looks cloudy or shows visible scratches.
• Not shaking the resin bottle: Resin separates during storage — pigments and heavier components settle to the bottom. Printing with unmixed resin leads to inconsistent curing. Shake the bottle thoroughly (2–3 minutes) before every pour.
• Over-trusting auto-generated supports: Auto-support in slicers has improved enormously, but it’s still not perfect for miniatures. Always review auto-generated supports before printing.
• Printing in cold conditions: Cold resin in a cold room is the silent saboteur of fine detail. If your printing space is below 18°C, you will struggle. Warm the resin to room temperature before printing, or choose a printer with a heated vat.
• Skipping test prints: Different resin brands and formulations require different exposure settings. Switching resins without running a calibration test print is asking for trouble.

A Note on Resin Safety

This section is not optional reading. Resin is a chemical material that requires respectful handling. The good news is that with basic precautions, resin printing is completely safe for home and workshop use.

• Gloves: Nitrile gloves every single time you handle uncured resin, open the vat, remove prints, or do post-processing.
• Ventilation: At minimum, print in a space with a window you can crack open. Better: a dedicated enclosure with an activated carbon exhaust filter.
• Resin disposal: Never pour uncured liquid resin down the drain. Cure any waste resin in sunlight or a UV curing station, then dispose of the cured solid in regular trash.
• UV protection: Don’t look directly at the LCD screen during a print and don’t handle the FEP film during an exposure cycle.

The Bottom Line

The resin 3D printing landscape in 2026 has genuinely crossed a threshold. What used to require industrial equipment now fits on a desk, costs a few hundred dollars, and — with the right machine — delivers results that professional miniature painters and tournament-level hobbyists are using in competitive and display contexts.

The machines in this guide represent the best available at every price point and use case. Whether you’re starting with a Mono 4 to see if you love it, or going straight to a Saturn 4 Ultra because you already know you do — you’re making a decision that’s going to change how you look at your hobby.

The minis you can print now? They’re extraordinary. The only question left is which machine is going to be printing them.

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