Anycubic Mega Zero Review

Do we (finally) have a worthy Creality3D Ender-3 competitor here? A quick assembly time, solid workmanship and above all: a low price. The new Anycubic Mega Zero offers all of this – at least at first glance.

How does the new Anycubic 3D printer fare in the test? And will it make waves as positive as the I3 MEGA back then  ? I am sceptical!

Anycubic Mega Zero Review

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The Anycubic Mega Zero

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Anycubic Mega 3D Printer Highlights

    • Print area: 220mm × 220 × 250mm
    • Nozzle diameter: 0.4mm
    • Filament material: PLA, TPU, HIPS, PETG

Scope of delivery and packaging

When you open the package, the “classic packaging” awaits you. Everything is sorted in foam forms, on the usual two layers, and accordingly in an orderly condition. All parts, from the stepper motors to the smallest screw, are there and mostly even labeled. That of course makes the search for the parts during assembly much easier.

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We want to see it neatly and neatly packed.

The accessories and tools can also be found quickly and in satisfactory condition. Please consider: You don’t want to build entire wall units with it ;-). Nevertheless: Everything you need to operate or set up the printer is included.

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Tools for assembly are included

Fast assembly

With around 40 minutes of assembly time, the Anycubic Mega Zero certainly doesn’t set a record, unlike the Anycubic I3 MEGA , which only took 5 minutes. Nevertheless, the assembly is very simple and no problem even for a layperson. Even if you are completely unskilled, you can follow the English step-by-step instructions and shouldn’t have any problems.

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English assembly instructions: Well illustrated and self-explanatory.

In principle there is not much to do. The frame is set up within a few minutes (assemble with four screws on the base) – only the assembly of the stepper and the cabling takes a little more time, but is also done quickly.

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Two screws per side and the thing is stiff.

But you should definitely (as always) make sure that all parts are assembled correctly (around). You tend to think too quickly in the routine: “ Yes, that’s okay. That belongs here “uuund … you can loosen the parts again and screw them on again ;-).

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You will look in vain for rust or bent or broken parts

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Unfortunately, only a single fan is installed here

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The feeder does its job very reliably, no problems so far

Overall, I would rate the processing quality with a school grade of 2 – if you keep the price in mind.

Setup in 5 minutes

Setting up the printer is very easy. As soon as everything is ready: plug into the socket. Switch on, use the “Home All” command to move to the start position and then move around the corners via “Level Corners” (so-called “Leveling”). This is done via the English menu, which is very simple and clear. As a 3D printer owner, you should already be familiar with the menu. It’s not a “fancy” touchscreen, but it is effective.

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Old acquaintance: The 12864 display with a rotary wheel for navigation

The last steps of leveling, i.e. aligning the hotbed, are still on the plan. To do this, you can raise or lower the height using the screws under the hotbed. The height should be set so that only about 0.1 mm of space remains between the hotbed and the nozzle. The best way to test whether this is the case is with a receipt or another thin piece of paper. It should fit in between, but you should feel some resistance when pulling it out.

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(Attention: The 0.1 mm is a good guideline for getting started! Depending on the nozzle diameter, layer height, flow and filament type, you should “play” with this value later)

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The nozzle rests on: the print bed still has to be lowered.

This is done for all four corners as well as the center of the print bed. Preferably two times in a row. If you don’t do this properly, you probably won’t have much fun with your first print.

The first print

So far so good. Let’s get to the most important part: the print quality. We decided, once again, for the owl, because this file is already saved as GCODE on the enclosed (noname) SD card. In the best case, the manufacturer has already (hopefully) optimally gelsiced this file so that the result should be correspondingly good. There is also a little red filament in the package (about 10m), but unfortunately that’s only enough for the first print.

You can read which one is right for you in our appropriate guide . At Amazon you will find a large selection of inexpensive filament , which is not only similarly cheap, but also gets to you quickly.

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It’s not much, but at least some filament is included. It is best to order directly at the same time.

The fans and especially the steppers are, in this price range, completely normal, clearly audible and thus the Anycubic Mega Zero levels off at around 65 dB operating volume. This is not necessarily annoying, but much too loud for the bedroom ;-). If you are looking for a really pleasantly quiet 3D printer, you should look at the Creality3D CR-10 V2 with stepper drivers (and many extras).

In the middle of the first print, I paused the print and started it again. The “Resume Printing” feature works without complications or errors, which are then reflected in the print.

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The contours and notches in the tree trunk, as well as the claws and feet of the owl, were no problem for the Anycubic Mega Zero. Everything looks clean and accurate at first glance.

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Unfortunately there were a few unclean spots on the feathers. The filament has run a little and so you have a few noses on the lower feathers. The (only) one-sided component ventilation does not cool the overhangs accordingly.

In later tests I was able to prevent this with a different filament and a reduced printing speed (~ 40mm / s).

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The first print was ready in just over 1 hour and 24 minutes. Including setup, setup and printing time, it takes a little more than 2 hours to get your first result.

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You can see a few thin threads (“stringing”) on the head of the owl, but these can be removed very easily (“dirty”) (lighter or filament pliers). This can be remedied for later prints by setting the print speed, the flow parameter and choosing a better filament. After the owl cooled, it could be easily removed from the platform. No need to use the spatula.

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A very good result for the first print

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Both Benchy and the Calibration Cube and even small parts can be printed without any problems

In conclusion, however, it must be said once again clearly: It is not a small revolution, as was the case with the Anycubic I3 MEGA. The I3 MEGA replaced the “wobbly” acrylic case of the Anet A8 / A6, was quick to set up and offered 1-2 other cool features for the general public.

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Unfortunately, the hotbed is not insulated here, but this has not yet proven to be a real disadvantage

The Anycubic Mega Zero is clearly aimed at the beginner who is frugal, may later buy a larger model and / or will resell this 3D printer. You won’t find a lot of nice-to-have features here, and that is completely OK considering the price.

Conclusion on the Anycubic Mega Zero

The Anycubic Mega Zero can be set up and set up quickly. Even as a complete layman when it comes to the topic of 3D printers, you have no problems, at the latest with the assembly instructions. The first print was also “good to okay”. School grade: 2- (in the price segment). The other 3D prints have gotten a bit better, but of course they don’t come close to those from the $00-450 price league (e.g. Creality3D CR-10 V2 or Sidewinder X1 ).

With a price of just under $200, this is definitely a challenge to the Creality Ender-3 . Nevertheless: The Ender-3 has a (meanwhile) huge community where you can find help with every problem. You can also find almost everything at Thingiverse for mods, tuning or replacement printed parts . These two (important) aspects are missing from the Anycubic Mega Zero – at least for the moment. In addition, there is the missing heated print bed.

Nevertheless, the Mega Zero could make it in combination with a still good price and shipping from various online stores.

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