It’s been a long time since I was allowed to test a 3D printer and present it here. With the Anycubic Mega-S 3D printer, this break is now finally ended.
The printer itself has been on the market for some time and another 2-3 features have been added to it as the Mega-S. More on this and the print results below.
You can treat yourself to the test report again in the form of a video with plenty of Swabian content, or after the embedded video here as usual in text form.
Scope of delivery of the Anycubic Mega-S
The printer’s scope of delivery includes the main unit at the bottom including touchscreen, power supply, mainboard, etc. inside the housing. There is also the frame with the large Anycubic lettering, which houses the two Z-axes.
We also find the usual suspects in the scope of delivery, such as the (sanded) spatula for removing stubborn print objects, a filament holder for attachment to the right Z-axis, a manual, pliers, tools (Allen, screwdriver), a USB cable , a couple of screws and the power cord plus a few feet of PLA filament.
At Anycubic, however, there is another somewhat unusual delicacy. While I have already seen that another nozzle is included in the scope of delivery, a complete print head and a replacement end stop is a welcome special case! I like it very much!
The most important features
- Technology: FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)
- Accuracy: 0.05-0.3 mm
- Supported materials: PLA, ABS, HIPS, Wood
- Print speed. 20 ~ 100mm / s – Recommended: 60mm / s
- Travel Speed: 150mm / s
- Size: 210 x 210 x 205mm
- Max temperature: 260ºC
- Supported formats: .STL, .OBJ, .DAE, .AMF
To the Anycubic Mega-S itself
The printer was delivered from the Czech warehouse within a few days. Less than a week passed from the order placed to the arrival of the printer. I know this differently from previous deliveries (mostly via London). Here a delivery could easily take a month.
Incidentally, the Anycubic Mega-S currently costs just under $300 at Amazon.
The Mega-S is assembled in a few minutes. Basically, you just have to mount the frame with two screws each on the right and left and insert a couple of plugs, which then connect all the motors and sensors to the electronics in the housing. These plugs are located on the right-hand side behind the Z-axis and are color-coded and of different sizes.
As you can
nearlydo nothing wrong. If you are missing one of the connectors, look in the housing on the right Z-axis. This note is even in the instructions. So I guess that this plug has already been searched for or missed by several people. 🙂
Now the filament holder is screwed together with 2 screws and mounted on the right Z-axis.
Once everything is screwed together, the usual level stories follow. After the printer was preheated to PLA temperature, a piece of paper was placed underneath and the screws on the heatbed were adjusted so that the print head just barely scrapes the paper. Then you can start. Thread the filament through the new filament sensor and off you go!
In addition to instructions and videos for the printer, demo models and the like are stored on the enclosed SD card.
The first print on the Anycubic Mega-S went without any problems. The Ultrabase (printing platform) ensures good adhesion and immediately after leveling I didn’t print the usual owls or benchies, but a couple of FaceShields for the MakerVSVirus campaign .
Except for a few threads on the printing platform, everything went smoothly. I printed with cheap PLA, which had been lying around in my filament box for a while. Top liability. Basically nothing bothers me apart from the threads.
After a few FaceShields, the two owls were allowed to flow through the nozzle from the supplied memory card. Here, too, you can’t complain. I took the sliced models and didn’t change anything on the Gcode. Again, everything was fine and only a few threads between the ears when the nozzle had run over empty areas.
However, this can be remedied in a few simple steps in CURA. Take a closer look at Z Hop and Retract and the problem should be history.
Finally a few other little things (ass with ears and a toothpick dispenser) printed on Silky Filament and I’m absolutely satisfied.
After you have adjusted the speeds everything works fine. The dark blue Silky filament warped without end. I have only been able to fix this to a limited extent with the usual methods. I didn’t have this problem with either the white or the light blue filament in the test. So you can see very well that sometimes it’s not the printer, but the filament.
The coated glass plate (Ultrabase) of the Anycubic Mega-S is a great selling point for this printer. It really seems to hold onto it just fine. If you still drive with a good temperature, the object holds firmly, if the temperature drops after the pressure, the object often comes off without any aids.
- The printer is generally not the quietest, but neither is it the loudest. Depending on your own skills, you can possibly exchange the drivers. I have (still) decided against it, but have already ordered some. There will be an article about this and about my further experiences with the printer in one of the following 3D printer roundups .
- Compared to previous models, the Mega-S got a different filament runout sensor. This is now mounted on the side directly after the filament spool. The extruder has also been modified and is now a titanium clone. Flexible filament should no longer be a problem. So far I had only printed with PLA. And last but not least, a filament holder was attached directly to the printer.
- The filament holder is unfortunately a bit poorly placed on the right side and also had to be adjusted so that normal sized spools fit on it. However, this works super easy because only a small placeholder element is printed and screwed in between. All you need is screws a few millimeters longer and the normal filament spools fit. What is not fixed by this is the position of the SD card slot, which is located directly between the housing and the spool holder. You can get it, but the SD slot or holder is definitely not placed in such a smart way. There would have been so much space on the other side. 🙂
- My display has a bubble. The printer could still be operated well. Because I had to take a look at the mainboard etc. anyway, it quickly became clear that the Anycubic logo on the left and the “S” on the right of the touchscreen is a complete sticker including a transparent film over the front.
- I didn’t hesitate to remove the sticker so that the stupid bubble was gone again. After that, however, the frame of the touchscreen can be seen underneath. But as always, there is already a replacement on Thingiverse. So the stupid bubble is history!
- Modifications and extensions for the Anycubic Mega-S are already available on Thingiverse.com. Something for better cable management, something for the heat bed, the filament holder extension mentioned above, other fan brackets for the mainboard or the drivers and much more.
- The cables on the printer are sometimes “strangely”. Although the cables were all gathered together with spiral hoses and fastened here and there with cable ties, it still often looks like cable breaks could occur at some of these fastenings over a longer period of time.
- The technology common today has been built into the Mega-S so that the pressure does not have to go into the bin in the event of a power interruption. After the power supply has been restored, the menu asks whether printing should be continued.
- The printing platform is an ultrabase plate. It consists of glass and what we call a studded coating. These are barely visible and ensure that the printed object is held firmly in place. I know such records from Creality and other manufacturers. Everyone cooks their own soup. The Anycubic record has definitely done everything right so far. It is factory-installed with small (screwed!) Metal clips on the aluminum heating plate. This prevents the Ultrabase from slipping during printing. Let’s see whether the surface comes off with frequent cleaning. Only time will tell.
- Because I had to squint at the board because of the (ordered) quiet drivers, I also took a small photo of the sacred innards for you. The fan is of course usually screwed on over the stepper motors.
Anycubic Mega-S: My conclusion
In general, I like the Anycubic Mega-S very much. It has a small print bed only a little more than 20x20cm. But that should be enough for many. If you want to print an Ironman suit directly, you should plan with larger printers right from the start.
Of course, the smaller printing platform also has advantages. That way it heats up much faster. A small insulation mat for a few cents underneath the print bed would not have done any harm, as it keeps the heat better and the plate would certainly heat up even faster. Apart from that, with a smaller print, the forces acting on the printer are not so great and you have to struggle with fewer sources of error if problems arise.
The Mega-S printed with very good results right from the start. Therefore, I would definitely recommend the printer to beginners in terms of price / performance. The large touchscreen ensures easy operation and the print head also offers plenty of space inside and is extremely easy to repair. Only 4 screws have to be loosened and half the housing can be removed and offers space for a small circuit board in which the fans etc. are all individually plugged in. I also like that very much.
Of course, there are opportunities for improvement in various corners and ends. A quieter fan here, other drivers there, possibly a different filament holder, lighting on the print head and what else I don’t know. But such points can be found on almost every 3D printer. That is one of the advantages that these things can be adapted to every taste.
For the currently called price of approx. 250 EUR, you really can’t say anything.